FG MK1 - XR6 Turbo Automatic Transmission removal (ZFHP26)

[hjtrbo]

It sounds like a massive job but it's actually not, drop the k-frame if you intend to re-seal the sump. It'll make your life far less horrible trying to get the sealing surfaces spotless for the new sealer. And to mention cleaning the sump to remove the old sealer. You don't want that floating around and getting stuck to the oil pickup screen. You can buy an Aeroflow engine support bar for cheap to hold the engine up.

 

AF98-2065 – Import Parts & Mechanical (ipmracing.com.au)

BMW zf 6hp26 (Genuine) valve body seals plus adapter seal block and mechatronic plug - MJ Products | Solar Fans & Lights | Vehicle Accessories | Auto-Transmission Parts | Lucas Oil Distributor

BMW ZF 6HP26 6Spd Auto Trans Steel Metal Sump/Pan Conversion Kit (METAL/RUBBER Gasket) - MJ Products | Solar Fans & Lights | Vehicle Accessories | Auto-Transmission Parts | Lucas Oil Distributor

99800K - SHIFT KIT (6HP19/26/32 & 6R60/6R80) | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au)

99801K - ZIP KIT ZF6HP19/26/32 GEN 1 EXC CODE 053 | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au)

99995 - SEPARATOR PLATE (052 CODE) OEM | Transmissions (alltranz.com.au)

[greasemonkey]

Thanks HJ for the links. I checked out some of the parts already.

So I've done the rear main seal but something unusual was there that I saw. It was hard for me to take a photo but before I installed the new seal I saw that in fact the area between the block and crankshaft had what looked like metal welds. I thought this was weird because it is only on the right side. When I touched it, the metal bond suddenly broke off and I felt that it was actually like putty. It went down and I believe it is now in the sump. It is the size of say a rolled breadcrumb or two from a biscuit.

I think it was actually this (from when Ford were putting the engine together).

 

 

So I could just think it is small and nothing would happen but in all honesty you never know. Just is now an "maybe I will" to "I definitely will" take the oil pan off.

Is the oil pan on falcons purely RTV silicon material or do Ford use rubber gaskets to seal the whole pan?

One way as well I got the rear main off was by using a screwdriver and mallet. I hit it at the the end nearest the crank and angled the screwdriver away as there isn't any metal there. It created a hole eventually and I stuck the screwdriver in and levered it away slowly. I cut away some rubber for the photo

OLD SEAL

 

The torque converter I pulled out. It's heavy! Not much fluid came out. When I put it back, I aligned it to marks I had made. I didn't have to turn it a lot but I had to push it past 3 points of tension (different parts of the shaft). I really don't know if I ruined the converter or not when it came out with the box or when I took it from inside the box? It feels fine but I don't know what ruining the torque converter feels like?

Can anyone give me the name of this seal??

 

Thanks everyone so far. Seriously, your tips are helping me get this done!

[El Andrew]

There is a rubber half moon seal kit you need that seals the, well, half moon shaped parts of the sump at each enD of the crankshaft. Other than that, the gasket is all RTV

[Puffwagon]

The circled parts are just silicone from the sump install. You really need to go to town when getting the sump sealed up. I put silicone around the outside of the main seal just to make sure it seals. They farken leak if you don't seal every single last bit!

 

You didn't wreck the converter, you'll break the trans pump gears first and you already found the 3 steps.

 

You've done well so far, if you farked the trans seal have a look for what you need, front pump seal looks to be it.

 

[greasemonkey]

Alright guys. So I've ordered an engine support bar link (the aeroflow one). Just have to work out how it chains the Barra motors in the FG well. Going to get my tailshaft centre bearing replaced too and check the balance. Then I'll put it back together.

 

In the meantime I'm just wire brushing bolts that are corroded or chalky. My sandwich plate had very light remnants of surface rust. I cleaned them off.

 

I want to check. Is the transmission sandwich plate made of zinc or normal sheet metal with a painted coat. I'm worried I took off a coat or paint covering because the finish after wiring brushing the rust scale off is different. SEE PICTURE???

[greasemonkey]

Anyone have any info about the material of the sandwich plate??

I've done an internet search and can't find out what material the sandwich plate is made from and if it is coated.

Just my fear is that I have taken a coat off and it will now be open to rusting faster?

[k31th]

just anti-rust coat it

[greasemonkey]

Is my thinking right. Is it coated from Ford with a metal primer or something? Like zinc metal?

Anti-rust might be a good idea. Wonder what it is like with heat though?

[greasemonkey]

So I haven't confirmed from anyone, even on  facebook about the sandwich plate material but I just went "bugger it" and started primer painting it today. I'll coat it tomorrow and at least that will be rust proofed for eternity!

Got my front seal from Alltranz (thanks guys for pointing me in that direction). There only 20 mins from my place. Picked up a filter, the seal and a gasket. They gave me the aluminium gasket for the 6R80 that should fit on.

Just wondering if I need any RTV with that (I know that RTV is always used with no gasket). Will the aluminium seal as well as the green gasket they come with?

 

[greasemonkey]

So I'm getting ready to start undoing the sump and resealing

 

This is a job that you can make a little mistake and it is a pain to fix so hopefully first time will be the right way.

 

I've circled two parts in my picture

 

 

From what you guys have said, I want to use RTV silicone all across the bottom (red circle), then across teh yellow as well. The factory sump doesn't have any silicone I can see in the red circle. Do I do the same on the front sump also (where the crescent is) and do I need to take the harmonic balancer pulley off for this?

Thanks for the help