greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 22/09/24 10:59 AM Author Share Posted 22/09/24 10:59 AM I'll attack it tomorrow. Like Puff, I need a break. For 2 weeks now I've been tending to my car with things. Replaced a guard, flushed coolant system, installed superpro front upper control arms. Now the rear main seal, tailshaft coupling and my centre bearing is looking like it will break soon (16 year old car with over 220+kms and rubbers will crack). This was how I got off the Torque Converter Bolts today (uni joint plus some extensions). Slow but worked a treat. Just a reference for anyone else doing this job. JUST WONDERING THOUGH, HOW DO YOU GET TO THE EXTENSION HOUSING REAR MAIN SEAL? It's locked up by a retaining washer of some type??? I don't have my own photo but this hopefully will show you what I mean (from the FG workshop manual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xr6tForMe Donating Members 260 Member For: 11y 4m 22d Gender: Male Posted 22/09/24 11:28 PM Share Posted 22/09/24 11:28 PM Looks like you are getting plenty done. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 23/09/24 06:33 AM Author Share Posted 23/09/24 06:33 AM It's getting there. Just the more you pull apart, the more you inspect closer and see if you need to do additional repairs. I read up and saw to replace a rear main seal you, they charge about $1,000. Not sure if that is current (if it is more or less for a falcon). Lucky RWD. For FWD, on some cars you need to take the engine out or drop the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 23/09/24 01:38 PM Author Share Posted 23/09/24 01:38 PM Alright, so tonight I got the gearbox out. Was a pretty good feeling as I've never removed a transmission out of a car before. I had some questions though. Took some pictures but just need confirmation on some things. Upon inspecting my rear transmission mount I think it is gone? Initially I thought it slots in but the rubber has torn off from what I can see. Is my thinking correct? I'm using this as my comparison as well (https://www.repco.com.au/parts-service/car-engine-parts/engine-mounts/kelpro-engine-mount-mt7020/p/A9393840?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc®ion_id=100009&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo8S3BhDeARIsAFRmkOO2hd1jqrjLXqr8lphoJ2k-d5stwjJoImH1Xcq77u4AaFAizBBcS8kaAn_7EALw_wcB) My Mount NEXT QUESTION. How do I get this clip off? Do I need a special tool or can I do this using normal tools. SEE PICTURE FINALLY IT'S OUT! Thanks Everyone. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 10m 2d Posted 24/09/24 07:14 AM Share Posted 24/09/24 07:14 AM Your mount doesn't look good. Pretty nasty split. Time for a new one. For the nut, pry back the little locking indent. Then grab a 12pt deep socket that fits the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 24/09/24 12:25 PM Author Share Posted 24/09/24 12:25 PM Thanks HJ. I've ordered a new transmission mount and tailshaft coupling. Centre bearing will be replaced as well. Bloody rubber and age! Can I (and should I) remove the torque converter to get the old fluid out? Or just leave it in? Are there any seals I should replace for the transmission??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 10m 2d Posted 24/09/24 07:32 PM Share Posted 24/09/24 07:32 PM Yes you can drop the fluid out of the TC and replace it. There are valve body to case seals and valve body dampers that should be replaced. Also replace the case connector seal. Use genuine parts. MJ Products in Hallam VIC has everything you need. Be aware that when you refill the trans when its back on the car that you'll need to check the level maybe 2 or 3 more times over the course of a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 25/09/24 06:44 AM Author Share Posted 25/09/24 06:44 AM Thanks HJ again. How do I get the torque converter out. Do you just pull it off or does it spin off and in what direction? I didn't know the valve body has case seals (don't even know where they are located). Don't know what valve body dampers are either. Happy to have any info or websites for this. I'll try to research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,892 Member For: 9y 9m 22d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 25/09/24 07:57 AM Share Posted 25/09/24 07:57 AM The torque converter just pulls out, when you reinstall it you need to spin and push until it goes in enough. The spigot on the converter will be inside the bell housing, if it isn't just spin and jiggle some more. If you don't seat it properly you run the risk of breaking the trans pump gears. I have a pdf or two that show a bit about the zf, I'll dig them up for you. There is one on a Jaguar forum, you'll probably find it if you google it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkey Member 85 Member For: 6y 11m 14d Posted 25/09/24 10:41 AM Author Share Posted 25/09/24 10:41 AM The OEM workshop manuals are good but some parts are quite light. Those pdf's would be amazing to look at if you have them Puff! I read somewhere that you can take the sump and slide it off the engine if the transmission is out. Will this work or will the oil pick up prevent me from lowering the pan and moving it backwards? My sump silicon bead is starting to crack. If it is easy to take off, it would be good to do this I think. Just to confirm, Barra motors don't use a oil pan gasket but instead use silicon to bond the sump to the engine block? Just got off the rear main seal now and will install genuine one on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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