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Diy engine removal


Gaz084

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  • Member For: 10y 4m 4d

Have been working on this slowly, still need to purchase an engine crane...have been keeping an eye out on marketplace.

 

What's the best way to get to the top Bellhouse bolts...I remember last time I dropped the transmission mount and it tilted the engine enough backwards to get access to them, being the territory is awd makes it interesting.

Another thing I remember is the rear of the engine has a sensor and wire going to it, last time I completely ripped it of not knowing it was there.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 14y 2m 11d

I've done exactly that to get to the top bellhousing bolts in the past on falcons. Not sure if it was needed on the territory or not, but I do remember using an impact gun and an impact rated uni joint.

 

That's the cylinder head temperature sensor you're thinking of. Pretty common to break them, just need to be cautious of it as you're lifting the engine in/out.

Edited by natho
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  • Member For: 10y 4m 4d

Ok well engine is out.

Pulled of the sump and timing cover,most of the leaks seem to have been coming from the half moon seals.

Shame seeing the engine was rebuilt 18months ago.it has the ross pistons and spool rods with heavy duty valve springs.

Not sure if I should do the oil pump gears,im only chasing 300awkw....but being the f6x variant im wondering if I should do them for resale value.

Id prefere not to honestly.

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 10m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

That pump would be fine.

 

To remove the spring you undo the cap, there's a little bit to locate the spring, there's the spring and there's the relief plunger. Very easy to work out when it's in front of you.

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 10m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

It depends. Cheap gears may not be finished properly and have a sharp edge on them still that will eat the pump or backing plate within a few hundred km. Also you gotta watch the laser etching, it has to be smooth otherwise it will eat the pump too. You can hand file them though or you can pay extra for ones already nice and smooth. That pump is only $500 and it has billet gears, spring and steel backing plate, you can't really go wrong (providing it doesn't have those sharp edge issues) and wouldn't be saving much doing it yourself. You might save $100 or so. If I was gonna buy one, I'd open it up to check first anyway.

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  • Member For: 9y 10m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Yes they'll move and yes you have to set the timing again. You can ignore the chain marks, just ensure the harmonic balancer is lined up to the mark on the timing cover and both dots on the cam phasers are pointed straight up. They are frequently a quarter to half a tooth of centre, you'll know if it a tooth out cos it's a fair bit off centre.

 

Here's an engine manual, have fun

 

 

Falcon-2008-Engine-Service-Manual.pdf

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