Ba XR6 Turbo loss of power and stalling in hot weather

[sterps]

Hi,

I have an issue with my BA XR6 Turbo that only seems to happen during a hot day, specifically once last year on a 36-degree day, and once a few weeks back, on a 33–34-degree day.

After about 45minutes to an hour of driving (with the aircon on) the car starts to hesitate and when I put my foot down, the revs won't go high and starts really struggling.
At low speeds, the car really struggles and will stall (with the aircon off).

I can start the car again, but in a minute, or less it'll start idling rough, spluttering and then stall. If I drive, I have barely any power and can only really crawl, the car really hesitates, revs won't go high and stay low, and the car staggers before stalling again.
There'll also be strong smell of fumes after this.

The strange thing is, after left for a while, the car starts and drives fine, with no issues at all.

The first time, I had my car towed home, but was able to drive the car back into my garage fine, and the next day, I drove it for 45 minutes with no issue.

The second time it happened a few weeks ago, I barely made it to a job, and when I finished the job 9 hours later, it was 1:30am obviously wasn't as warm, and was able to drive home an hour away with no issues.

RACV couldn't find any issues, and the mechanics I take my car to couldn't find any issue, mentioning they tested the spark plugs, coil pack, battery, alternator and they're all fine.

There was a lean code present on there, which they cleared, but that was all.

They mentioned that turbo cars can do this in hot weather, though this has only happened since last year, and I've had the car for over a decade.

Has anyone experienced this, or heard of this, and can provide some insight on what it might be, and what I should change to remediate it?

I don't like the idea that my car can do this again on the next hot day I go driving.

Thank you in advance.

[Puffwagon]

A lean code would explain the lack of power and spluttering etc. More than likely you'll need to replace the O2 sensor. You can check the O2 sensor operation with a scanner to verify first if you want.

[sterps]

Thanks for the reply.
I'm going to look at getting my O2 and Crank angle sensors changed over.
In terms of the ECU, does you know somewhere I can take my car to in or around Melbourne and have a new/replacement ECU put in?

[Puffwagon]

Sorry I'm not up to date with who does what in Melbourne. Someone will have an idea though

[spook]

Does it ever do it when the fuel tank is reasonably full?

I had the similar fault. When the tank was 1\2 or less and on a hot day - same symptoms as you report. Leave for a few hours and would it start and run fine as by then it was later in the day and cooler.

Turned out to be a bad fuel pump

Edited 19/03/24 03:21 AM by spook

[sterps]

I can't remember the first time, but last time it happened the car, would've been just under a full tank (3/4 tank minimum).

I'm thinking I might have the O2 and the crank angle sensors changed first, then perhaps the fuel pump, and if that fails I guess it'll be the ECU... Guess I won't know till next Summer though.

[sterps]

Sorry for the bump, thought I'd update this.

I ended up having the O2 and Crank Angle sensors changed, and also changed both MAP sensors.

 

Yesterday it was about 25c-27c in Melbourne, and the issue returned. Experienced a loss of power and surging when trying to accelerate.

 

The codes that came up when I connected an OBD scanner:

 

P0171 - System too lean bank1

P1131 - Lack of HO2S Switch - Switch indicates lean

U1900 - CAN communication Bus Fault - receive error (this one showed up at first, the stopped coming up)

P0325 - Knock sensor (KS)1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction (this one didn't show up at first, but then started coming up after I ran a couple of scans)

 

Could the knock sensor be the issue here?

[Puffwagon]

If a knock sensor becomes unplugged it will automatically pull all the available timing the tune will allow. In some cases this can be as much as 14 degrees so you end up running only a couple of degrees timing. This is something you can log with a scanner or a ford specific tuning solution.

 

You really need to go to a shop that can properly diagnose and fix the car. Throwing parts at it and hoping it fixes it is not how you go about things.

[sterps]

I'm happy to do that, can anyone recommend a reputable mechanic/shop that has good experience with BA XR6Ts? Preferably in the Western suburbs of Melbourne?

[Puffwagon]

@bossmang

@k31th

@Rab

@ whoever else the fark lives there

 

DSR Performance comes to mind, Maxx Performance too 

Edited 13/11/24 08:53 AM by Puffwagon
My balls are cook