fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 26/02/24 09:43 AM Share Posted 26/02/24 09:43 AM Hi Guys, I've had a PPS failure on the turbo. Initially I thought it was a dodgy Tps. I ordered a new genuine Tps from ford a few months ago, as I was in the process of preventative maintenance and was replacing all the sensors anyway. Anyway, for the benefit of the doubt, I swapped the throttle body with one that does work...no difference. Start the car....revs straight to 2000rpm then drops to almost a stall, and sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. no reaction from the pedal when you push it. It's been playing up since before xmas, but it's finally let go. I drove to the shops and back yesterday, car seemed fine, but on the way home seemed like it struggling to make power. Got in it this morning for work, got down the road about a 1k, then it crapped itself. Barley made it home in limp mode with a few stalls. I've replaced the following sensors...TPS, 02 Sensor, Boost sensor, Boost solenoid, has brand new coils and plugs...tuned in October last year by clint at profile. Has brand new exhaust turbo back, has no air leaks as tested by smoke machine a few weeks ago. I also have crank, cam and new map sensors...but yet to install those. When I checked the codes, it had thrown about a dozen, mostly related to the pps. Had one for tps, one for cam sensor and coil misfire...but most were pps related. I even re-flashed the tune, but no good. PO124 PO172 PO221 PO356 PO1270 PO2100 Po2105 PO2110 PO2138 PO2139 I've already ordered a new genuine PPS. Just need some advice for removal and re-installation. I read somewhere the pedal has to be indexed or something like that. Anyone that has changed one, some helpful advice would be welcome. Car is a Series II BA Turbo 6 speed manual sedan. Regards Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBurbo Silver Donating Members 48 Member For: 2y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: WA Wheatbelt Posted 27/02/24 09:31 AM Share Posted 27/02/24 09:31 AM Have you got adjustable pedals to start with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 28/02/24 08:21 PM Author Share Posted 28/02/24 08:21 PM No....just the standard pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBurbo Silver Donating Members 48 Member For: 2y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: WA Wheatbelt Posted 29/02/24 08:01 AM Share Posted 29/02/24 08:01 AM So....I was hoping someone else would jump in cause Ive got an FG instead of a BA. But I've recently had a faulty pps and pulled the sensor apart, and there aren't any smarts in it, Ground, 5V supply and sensor output (all doubled up for safety). So no linking it to the ecu or calibrating it or anything. Otherwise I'm just regurgitating manuals I've read online, that the indexing is for the adjustable pedal boxes to make sure the brake and accelerator pedals are positioned correctly compared to each other. So you won't have to worry. My pps bolts were glued in with 400*C lock tight, I stripped every since head, had to drill all the heads off and then get the threads out with vice grips. My pps issue turned out to be a broken 5V supply in the loom, pps was fine. Good luck 🫡. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 29/02/24 09:12 AM Author Share Posted 29/02/24 09:12 AM Hi mate, Thanks for the post. I read somewhere it had to be indexed, and since you mentioned it, I do now remember it was for the adjustable pedals. Thanks for a heads up on the bolts. If mine have lock tight.....I'll heat up the bolts first. I've been doing some intensive research. I'm going to test the plug first. Make sure their is 5V on pin 6 & 7 with ignition on....all other pins should read zero volts. That's on a BA PPS. If that's fine, I'll do a resistance test on the PPS itself. I have the full chart here. As a matter of interest mate....were in the loom was your 5V break...to your PPS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBurbo Silver Donating Members 48 Member For: 2y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: WA Wheatbelt Posted 29/02/24 10:36 AM Share Posted 29/02/24 10:36 AM I haven't tracked it down yet. Using a network tracer it fades out near the footwell kick panel so I'm saving it for the next time I get it up on the lift and have time to start pulling trim off. 🙈 In the meantime I pulled the pin out of the plug and bridged the 5v supply over internally. 🙏 I do so solemnly swear to properly fix the loom and not leave it indefinitely 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 01/03/24 08:56 AM Author Share Posted 01/03/24 08:56 AM (edited) To fix your problem...just run a new wire direct back to the pcm. On the PPS plug..pin 3010 (Pin6) connects to B connector on pcm....pin 28...or B28. Pin 3836 (pin7) runs back too pcm B connector on pcm or B20. These two supply 5v from the pcm to the to the pps. Edited 01/03/24 08:58 AM by fox1972 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBurbo Silver Donating Members 48 Member For: 2y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: WA Wheatbelt Posted 01/03/24 12:37 PM Share Posted 01/03/24 12:37 PM Yeah but, there's going to be random other sensors getting power off that B20 isn't there? It's on my mind that there's a broken 5v line that might be from chaffing and eventually ground itself and I lose power to my cam control or airbags or something 😂. So I'm hesitant to run a second line without finding the first break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 02/03/24 04:44 AM Author Share Posted 02/03/24 04:44 AM (edited) Both B28 and B20 are strictly for the PPS. I've attached the image for you, but that's for the BA Falcon I6 PCM. No other sensors run off them according to the schematic. Well, got in my car this morning. Decided to start it, and bang....started first go and ran perfectly. I cannot believe it. I did have the battery on charge overnight though. Starting to think it may be the battery, considering it's nearly 4 years old. I do have constant voltage drops when starting it. I did test it a few months ago and it came up good battery on the tester. Maybe the battery didn't have enough juice to run the pcm and all the sensors, coil packs etc. I know the falcons get real cranky with a bad battery, and considering it's nearly 4 years old, I'll go get a new one. Edited 02/03/24 04:45 AM by fox1972 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox1972 Member 47 Member For: 6y 20d Posted 02/03/24 06:17 AM Author Share Posted 02/03/24 06:17 AM Confirmed.....Bad Battery. Had it tested and it was stuffed....wouldn't even hold load. They were surprised the car even ran at all. Took the car for a run with the new battery and the car runs much better. Also noticed that it's no longer running rich like it was before. It also had a slight stutter/hesitation before, that's now gone as well. Did a proper smoke test a few weeks ago thinking it was and intake gasket or similar. Anyway...all good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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