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Oil leak - I have some thinking to do


El Andrew

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 9y 8m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

Haven't had a chance to clean yet, but might not need to. In the dark with a torch I can see everything is clean above the head gasket and seems to be a leak around cylinder 2. Is wet there and then dribbles down.

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  • Member For: 9y 8m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

Doing some research before I commit to anything (and pending proper clean and confirmation of diagnosis). If I did the job myself I'm thinking I'll need a full seal kit (head, inlet manifold,valve stem seals, etc). Plus head bolts obviously.

I don't want to go crazy replacing things for the sake of it, but think crank pulley and valve springs would be sensible. Anything else? Good chance to powder coat my slightly daggy rocker cover too.

I'm thinking my safest course of action would be motor out and then do everything cleanly and slowly.

Can I reseal the timing cover and rocker cover while leaving the sump in place? I seem to remember that timing cover and sump had to be done together.

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  • Member For: 9y 8m 23d
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  • Location: Canberra ACT

Haha I tell you what - when you start adding up costs and then think about what I could sell my motor for secondhand, it isn't a bad option

Edit: another option I thought if to keep costs down could be to remove and install the engine myself, but get the actual engine work done at a nearby engine builder. Should save a heap of labour but keep me inside my comfort zone.

I need to make a few calls and zero in on a solution

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  • Member For: 9y 11m 16d
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  • Location: South Australia

It could just be a timing cover leak that has travelled. Easy fix while in the car and can replace chain and guides while there.

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  • Member For: 9y 8m 23d
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  • Location: Canberra ACT

I'm leaning more towards doing this myself. Best quote I've had for head gasket replacement has been $4500. Just can't see the value in it - seems better to go cheap myself or pay more and get a total refresh. But not the inbetween option.

So far I'm thinking:

Atomic reseal kit with MLS head gasket
Standard head bolts - can't see for my purposes that I need to shell out extra for head studs
Crow or Atomic valve springs (which I'm guessing will be a reasonably straightforward swap with the head off) - good opportunity to do this cheaply

From the workshop manual it looks like the most important part is the sequence and torque procedure for the cam carriers and head bolts.

Maybe a new crank pulley if they are a common issue and I have to remove it anyway.

Should probably get the head checked but seems unlikely to be problematic if it is an oil leak only and haven't had overheating.

Paint the rocker cover properly - I tidied it up a few years back in car but that was always going to be temporary.

Am I asking for trouble if I don't worry about replacing the timing chain? I'm only 300rwkw and no limiter bashing.

For tools I think I'll need a generic valve spring tool and a specific puller for the crank pulley (unless I grind down my gear puller)

Other than that, a clear bench and lots of plastic bags and a Sharpie!

Any thoughts from those of you with experience?

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