I want to join the 300kw club

[Booker]

On 13/2/2023 at 11:13 AM, biddie_fiddler said:

Once you've fitting the injectors and/or high flow cat it'll change the way the car behaves. Don't fit it all and wait for a tune. Book a tune, then fit the stuff a day or before. Getting the dump off sucks, just fyi. I bought the Ultrex 4" dump + cat when I was chasing 300+kw. I couldn't get the dump bolts off, spent hours trying. Ended up giving it to the tuner and they fitted it for me. Some things are just easier with a hoist!

 

I really wouldn't recommend driving it with heaps of performance parts and no tune, just asking for trouble. Better be safe than sorry, and if that means no driving for a day so be it. That being said, you can limp it from home to the shop, just do not go hitting boost. You can drive anywhere and never need to with the factory power anyway. I replaced my gt3576 with a psr gtx3582 and drive it from home to the tuner, just didn't get in boost the whole way there.

 

Take @JETURBO advice, this won't be the last time you get performance upgrades so plan ahead. Get a walbro 255lph fuel pump for the intank pump, you can fit it yourself but if you haven't before then I don't recommend it. A 255lph pump will end up serving very well as a lift pump for an anti-surge tank you'll get in the future, no doubt  

 

Factory turbo will push you to 300kw but it'll be on the edge of its efficiency, same goes for springs. Personally, I'd ask the tuner his preference on when to do springs. I had factory springs at 310kw. I knew I was going back for more, so there wasn't any point in me doing springs then, and head studs later. Save the labour costs and do them together. If they recommend springs now, then bite the bullet and do studs too. Expensive now, but you'll save in costs later.

 

I've seen setups like yours, 1000cc injectors, high flow cat etc, range from 290kw to 330kw. Will depend on your car. Either way, once its tuned you'll feel the difference no matter the power. You get more power everywhere. Its awesome  

 

Oil Pump Gears. If this isn't on your list then add it asap. Especially sine you have a manual! Barra pump gears are notorious for failing. When you start chasing power, the limiter starts approaching quicker than you expect. I had these done before I'd even got a tune. I've seen too many posts of engines going straight to the bin because of failed gears. Do you need them? No, but you're just leaving a failure point in the car, that will cause mass damage if the break.

 

If you get a catch can and want it to remain legal, get the Jonny Tig one. It won't vent both the breather and PCV, but at least its street legal. I have a "race" spec catch can, which basically means it vents both PCV and breather, goes to a container with a vent on the top, its also a made-in-china jobby that has absolutely zero buffling. Not that it really needs to cause its vented to atmo, but still for the price its pretty average. It sits in the usual spot for falcons, it makes the cabin STINK! As soon as you're stationary with the air con on that sucks air from outside, it sucks in ALLLLLLL the fumes from the catch can and is not great. Setting A/C to recirc solves this issue though. 

 

Can't say I've heard this happen to anyone, that sucks! Your pump might be failing? Causing too much pressure in the lines

 

Hey bro thanks for the help

I should of been more specific with fitting the parts and driving. I meant just driving it to the tuner after fitting the parts as I have a work car to drive for the time being.

I don’t think I will realistically have this car on the dyno till the mid year so I’ve decided to take my time with it.

I took your advice and bought a walbro 255, can I fit this now or wait untill the day before the tune? In case the car was driven in the time being.

Also did I make a mistake not getting an e85 compatible pump?

I can return the injectors if they’re overkill but every post I’ve read recommend the 1000cc injectors for even this power category.

 

I’m mainly stumped on wether I should do the oil pump gears, studs and valves springs. I know it’s better than not doing it but it adds a fair bit of cost. As I believe if I do the valve springs now I may as well do all 3. I would rather not do them to save some money and do them the next power upgrades in a year or two. The Ute itself really only gets 5000kms a year max. I also want to save the money in this area as I’m yet to get the mechanics bill for the power steering fix and what’s causing some whining in the rear (yet to find out if it’s diff, tail shaft or axle related as I’m no mechanic) and I’ve also cracked a rim and found out how much a single fgx turbo rim costs! The guy at bob janes recommended me a place that can weld my cracked rim which I’m considering.