3Katz Donating Members 122 Member For: 6y 10m 16d Posted 03/01/23 01:33 PM Share Posted 03/01/23 01:33 PM I have the BTR out again, I should install it with wingnuts this time... I have a Yella Terra flex plate and an unknown built 'heavy duty' Territory converter. The box has been in and out a few times for various reasons- this time because the crank bolts came loose on the dyno. When I pulled it out the first time (not for loose bolts) I noticed marks on the converter where it has been touching the crank bolts. When assembled there is 1mm clearance between the crank bolt heads and the tc. I am supposing that the converter swells under load sometimes enough to slightly touch the bolt heads. The problem I have is because the bolts have come loose I have decided to try a Mackielec retaining plate. This kit requires the use of a different ARP bolt (203-2802) which has a much taller head than the ARP bolt currently in use. A difference of 4mm - room I don't have. As there would probably be thousands of these kits on Yellaterra flexplates I'm guessing the difference I have is the t/c itself is slightly different. I've measured my t/c spacing or air gap at 3.5mm which is at the lower end of spec (3.2-4.8mm) so I can't space the converter back. I can't machine the crank side of the flexplate as that will affect ring gear to starter engagement. I could machine the area opposite where the bolt heads are but 4mm is a decent slice of a 8mm plate. I could maybe take some off the bolt side of the flexplate and some off the bolt heads themselves... Or I could look at a new converter which would be a shame as this one seems fine (I don't have a stock one to measure against for comparison). Or (just popped into my head) I could use a couple extra engine to trans sandwich plates which would push the trans back in relation to the t/c increasing the air gap which means I could space the t/c back of the bolt heads.... Crikey. I'll include some pics, interested to hear your thoughts guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Katz Donating Members 122 Member For: 6y 10m 16d Posted 03/01/23 08:00 PM Author Share Posted 03/01/23 08:00 PM "which means I could space the t/c back of the bolt heads" Should read: "space the t/c back OFF the bolt heads" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,972 Member For: 9y 10m 22d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 03/01/23 11:51 PM Share Posted 03/01/23 11:51 PM I would cover the first set of bolts in loctite, not just a drop, actually coat the threads, then I would use a 'vs' schnorr washer and send it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Katz Donating Members 122 Member For: 6y 10m 16d Posted 04/01/23 01:57 AM Author Share Posted 04/01/23 01:57 AM Well if that's what you would do I'll give it a go too. Save me muckn about with machining stuff and worst case pull the box again, 30min job these days. I'll have a chat with Mackielec when they're back from break and see what the scoop is. They look more like flywheel bolts they've recommended... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,972 Member For: 9y 10m 22d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 04/01/23 02:45 AM Share Posted 04/01/23 02:45 AM That would be my first thing to do. If it still comes loose, I would mod the retaining plate to fit over the low profile bolts and tig it to the heads of the bolts. Just a couple of mm will be enough, you want to be able to remove it easily enough eventually. That shouldn't interfere with any clearance that you already have as the retaining plate should sit flush or under the top of the bolt. Tigging won't affect the balance of the engine etc so nothing to worry about there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Katz Donating Members 122 Member For: 6y 10m 16d Posted 04/01/23 07:26 AM Author Share Posted 04/01/23 07:26 AM Great thanks mate, I'm not sure why they've come loose this time I suspect I wasn't as liberal with the loctite last time it was out, never had a problem before. I've also removed the Powerbond balancer and installed a Ross which should hopefully help as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat007 Member 236 Member For: 6y 3m 17d Posted 04/01/23 08:31 AM Share Posted 04/01/23 08:31 AM What's wrong with the powerbond balancers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Katz Donating Members 122 Member For: 6y 10m 16d Posted 04/01/23 09:23 AM Author Share Posted 04/01/23 09:23 AM General consensus seems to be the Ross and ATI balancers are possibly more effective than the Powerbond. I had one ready for the other engine anyway so worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,972 Member For: 9y 10m 22d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 04/01/23 09:37 AM Share Posted 04/01/23 09:37 AM Powerbond balancer will crack around the key-way and yeet itself yonder, members had fun dealing with that at racewars in Perth a few years ago. Ross balancer and ATI wont crack and will stay attached if you do the carnt up tight and the clearance is set up correctly. Yes balancers have a proper clearance between it and the crank and you check this before install. The Ross unit is still bonded aka metal & rubber, so not suitable for mega hp but good enough for most upgraded barras. The ATI unit is solid so no chance of vibration or separation caused by extreme hp applications. Can also slap ya nans dry sump oil pump drive on the front so there's something if you need it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biddie_fiddler [IMPULSIV3] Donating Members 1,374 Member For: 5y 8m 23d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 04/01/23 11:56 PM Share Posted 04/01/23 11:56 PM The order of quality goes something like this Powerbond < RR Race balancer < RR Gold Balancer < ATI balancer This is one of the few occasions where the more you pay, you're 100% getting a better product. As Puff mentioned above, all but the ATI balancer is bonded using a (very) strong adhesive. Hence why there is a big price bump from RR gold to ATI. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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