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HJ's build thread


hjtrbo

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Goodness, everyone's got a fair bit on. Puffwagon is kicking goals with his build, great to see it finally coming alive after so long. As he gets closer to completing his journey, mine starts. 

 

Engine

If you remember earlier a failed front cover oil seal ended up uncovering a massive can of worms that has resulted in a full rebuild. Fair to say I've learnt a lot since creating that thread, but there is so much more learning to come. Long story short, the cam was done, some of the rollers were done, some of the lifters were done, timing chain guides broken, cracked turbo exhaust housing, oval bores, main bearings end of life, pistons undersized. Basically she was a tired old girl. Still went bloody hard though and ran quiet as a mouse which is a testament to the robustness of the taxi engine.

 

FG front cover oil leak - Engine Workshop - Ford XR6 Turbo.com

 

I know @JETURBO like his workbench pics of his customers parts. He was the inspiration that I needed to do the blatant copy cat. I still think he does a better job, I'm no photographer. 

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Lexi the dog is out for look. She always hangs around, love her to bits. And yes, I do mop my shed floors. Makes me want to get in and do a bit when the sheds clean. 

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Hoping to get the ute into the 500rwkw club. Still stock ZF and driveline. Still rocking a 245 rear tyre which is my torque limiter device for gears 1 through 3. When choosing the pistons I elected to up the compression to 10:1. I bought an Aquamist kit to see if I can stay on 98. Will be placing a lot of confidence in the knock monitor when she's on the dyno. Went with the factory cams again, and retaining the stock exhaust manifold. Will be tuning this one myself. 

 

If anyone wants to know what it costs to go built motor with full service engine machining and specialist work, then screwing it together yourself as a kit set whilst paying retail for parts, don't expect much change out of $20k. Add another $__k for built ZF, driveshaft and built 9" diff. All machine work, balancing and dummy assembly for clearance checks was done by John at Powerhouse Engines in Warragul. He also supplied most of the hardware for the build. I'm attaching the spread sheet so anyone wanting to build there own motor can get the parts numbers and costs. 

 

Turbo

Pulsar GTX3584RS with an at home modified port and flapper. See thread below for the build dairy. 

Flapper mod project - Turbo Workshop - Ford XR6 Turbo.com

 

Only a 6mm diameter change but you can see visually how much bigger it is. Before and after shot

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Trans cooler

Big Aeroflow cooler with built in fan. Also grabbed a Derale bypass valve 25719. This device keeps the cooler bypassed until the fluid temp is >80degC. The fan kicks on not far after that. The idea is to maintain a narrow temp range of trans temp so I am not fighting any temperature modifiers or thermal characteristics inherit to the transmission when dialling in the ZF tune. Likely no need to install it as none of the big players fit them, but it makes me feel better. 

 

Being a ute, the cooler went down the back. I ran a larger power cable down there than what I need to allow for possible fuel pump upgrades later down the road. There is also an ignition switched wire down there to enable the fan. Wasn't paying a fortune for the hose separators, flea bay to the rescue. Bought a 10 pack of separators for under $30 delivered. Quality was good too.  Hose is Raceworks AN8 120 series and fittings are 100 series cutter. Found a nice waterproof fuse and relay combo box to house the fan relay. There is spare room in there for another fuse and relay for a fuel pump upgrade in the future. Went down the rabbit hole if using the over braid and heat shrink for looks. Bloody waste of time because you can't even see it once it's installed. 

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Block

Got to have some fun masking up the block and cam cover. Came out ok. Getting all the rust off is a pain in the arse. Went and got one of those multipack brass cleaning wheel kits and got into it with the battery drill. Allow half a day to clean and mask up. 

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When masking the head, try and find something round to help mask off the spark plug holes. Makes it a lot easier. Also, if you didn't already know, use a hammer and LIGHTLY tap around the edge of the masking tape to make a perfect mask over bosses etc. 

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Parts List.pdf

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Time for a custom meth tank. Got 11 litres so far. Once its laser cut and I've got it bent and tacked up I'll see if I can add some more shapes to increase the capacity. It picks up the factory mounting points for the washer bottle so should be a bolt in installation. I left enough room rearward of the fog light to still replace the globe without having to take the tank out. The tank will also supply the window washer pump. I haven't worked out the fill piping yet, will need the tank installed as it's an intricate set of bends to get it to where the factory washer bottle fill point is in the engine bay.

 

I'm adding in the mounts for the common Aquamist style pump so it should be reasonably universal across different meth kits. Will also have bungs for level switch and outlet plumbing. The windscreen washer pump will be roughly in the same place so there will be no modification required there to the factory wiring or plumbing. Once I've got it dialled in I'll be making these available for sale. Will be cost price plus some beer money.  Should suit all FG-FG2 XR6. Maybe others if the washer bottle is the same part number all the way through. I left plenty of clearance around the bar and fog light to give it the best chance of being universal across as many models as possible. 

 

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Member For: 5y 8m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Beautiful workshop! Love the space, and keen to see this thread progress :) 

 

You're clearly pretty savvy when it comes to mechanical design & assembly stuff, makes these kinda threads more interesting!

I'm guessing that you're using solidworks? Looks like the classic sw colour pallet 🤣

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Thanks mate. Using Inventor. For some reason way back at the start I didn't get on the Solid Works band wagon and have been regretting it ever since. I have so much time invested in learning Inventor that I'm not swapping now. 

 

Space is at a premium in the shop. Currently got an order out to get another bay put on so I can get a 4 post hoist in. Running out of room to store my cars :)

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I wouldn't stress about not using SW. Only reason I use it is because work pays for it. Solidworks is very expensive. 

 

Inventor is cheaper, there is also fusion 360 which is a sh*t tonne more affordable for the average user. Heard a lot of good things about it :) 

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Loving the youtube 101 videos.

 

I sent Puff an embarrassing PM the other day where we went back and forward for what seemed like hours where he was slapping his head on the keyboard trying to tell me the pistons are offset. I would have sworn they wern't and had no idea what the hell he was going on about. Eventually I found out what that meant. Embarrassed? You bet!

 

For those that come across this thread in the future and you're screwing an engine together for the first time and have good mechanical aptitude but are just lacking in the engine assembly knowledge department, I can assure there are some little things that can bite you. Piston offset, piston ring top and bottom hardness differences (I.e. getting in the rhythm on the ring file for the top set then realise the bottom set are way softer!), not sealing certain bolts are some just to name a few.

 

I came across this series of videos. He goes into extreme detail, example 30mins just to show how to place a crankshaft into the block. A little long in places but overall perfect for those starting out. A recommended watch. 

 

Engine Building Part 2 - Gapping Rings, Installing Pistons in a 350 Chevy - YouTube

Engine Building Part 3: Installing Crankshafts - YouTube

Engine Building Part 4: Pistons, Rings, and Rods - YouTube

Engine Building Part 5: Camshafts - YouTube

Engine Building Part 6: Cylinder Heads - YouTube

Edited by hjtrbo
speelingg
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