Tom Tucker Donating Members 664 Member For: 5y 4m 8d Posted 01/08/22 05:08 AM Share Posted 01/08/22 05:08 AM Hey mate, your rebuild sounds like it's getting some good quality parts straight up, which is great to see. I think you're already at the max that turbo can make and fuel system might be close to tapped nearing 500. The only other thing I'd say is if you're already throwing new cams in there, why not put something a little spicier in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 9m 19d Posted 01/08/22 05:26 AM Author Share Posted 01/08/22 05:26 AM Just now, Tom Tucker said: I think you're already at the max that turbo can make and fuel system might be close to tapped nearing 500. Yeah, its a massive jump to go to the next stage. I.e fuel pumps / Built ZF / driveshaft / bigger turbo etc. Lets see how close I can get it. Might try one of those South Australian dynos 😛 3 minutes ago, Tom Tucker said: The only other thing I'd say is if you're already throwing new cams in there, why not put something a little spicier in there? I'm not so sure about that, maybe you can convince me otherwise?! Here is where my logic is at... I got genuine OEM brand new for $370 each. (So what) I've got my tune set up happy those cams (+1 to OEM) I have to hire lots of dyno time to dial in aftermarket cams (+2 to OEM) Restricted budget (+3 to OEM) Can put in aftermarket cams and port heads later when ZF and driveline is done (+4 to OEM) OEM cams idle to smooth (+1 to Kelford or equiv.) OEM cams won't get me more power (+2 to Kelford or equiv.) Built bottom end, do the right thing and get aftermarket cams and ported heads (+3 to Kelford or equiv.) The budget pushes me to OEM cams. Already $9k down the hole the last few days, and that's doing a lot of the work myself. The builder is going to gap and assemble the rotating assembly (short block) and assemble the valve train. I'll screw the rest together myself and re-install into engine bay to save a few grand there. Also bought a F6 oil cooler as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Tucker Donating Members 664 Member For: 5y 4m 8d Posted 01/08/22 06:21 AM Share Posted 01/08/22 06:21 AM No need to port the head. OEM are likely to pit again, aftermarket billet cams solves that problem. You're right about the tune, but I can see this is going to escalate to new turbo anyway - may as well do both together. Plus, a nice cam lope sounds baller. Stock idle is for chumps. One last thought. While you're at it, get new lifters, and look at your phasers and VCT solenoids. Plus you cam and crank angle sensors. Check the plugs while the motor is out, makes it so much easier. There's another $1k there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 9m 19d Posted 01/08/22 07:02 AM Author Share Posted 01/08/22 07:02 AM Ok. I hear your logic wrt to the cam pitting. Can cancel that order easy enough. Knowing the budget isn't there (yet) for the dyno time to dial in the cams, is there a consensus as to a mild aftermarket camshaft option that works ok enough with a slightly modified vvt map? Or if anyone would be willing to privately message a cam base tune map. Understand pineapples are required to be exchanged for a base map and cam recommendation via PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Tucker Donating Members 664 Member For: 5y 4m 8d Posted 01/08/22 08:09 AM Share Posted 01/08/22 08:09 AM My Haltech isn't relevant to you, but I have Atomic Stage 3. Highly recommend, easy on valve train, sweet burble. Big performance gains throughout the rev range. But Kelford 218A would be good. 218B if you want biggest gains and sound while retaining VCT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 9m 19d Posted 01/08/22 08:13 AM Author Share Posted 01/08/22 08:13 AM Awesome, haltech is definately relevant. Air fuel and spark is all the same. Just how you get there is the secret sauce. In your opinion no need to to port heads if choosing kelford 218b? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Tucker Donating Members 664 Member For: 5y 4m 8d Posted 01/08/22 08:50 AM Share Posted 01/08/22 08:50 AM I don't think so man. Maybe others will have a different opinion, but its relatively well accepted that the barra head flows nicely standard. Maybe worthwhile for 1000+hp. I'm happy to send you my map, when it's sorted. Unless you want 50L/100km fuel economy haha. PM Jet, he may be able to help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 9m 19d Posted 01/08/22 08:56 AM Author Share Posted 01/08/22 08:56 AM Lol, I know that pain. On a good day I get 20L/100 on my LSA VF on E85. Round town she's 30+/100km. Bloody cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Tucker Donating Members 664 Member For: 5y 4m 8d Posted 01/08/22 10:16 AM Share Posted 01/08/22 10:16 AM Nice. How do you rate the LSA? Have you compared it against an NA LS at any stage? I'm tossing up getting a VF SS for daily duties, but worried about lack of torque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjtrbo Bronze Donating Members 320 Member For: 13y 9m 19d Posted 01/08/22 10:20 AM Author Share Posted 01/08/22 10:20 AM NA SS is a worthy choice. Stall converter and trans tune makes a huge difference without even touching the engine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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