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FG front cover oil leak


hjtrbo

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  • Member For: 13y 9m 19d

Thanks @Puffwagon.

 

Machinist is going to inspect the block with me Monday morning. He wants it stripped down to nothing, will be a nice project over the weekend with a couple of cans. Hoping I can tell the Mrs the bores were 5 thou over so I had to get it bored out and new forged pistons and rods. 

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Goes in for measurement and inspection tomorrow, if all good then a ultra sonic clean and get the block decked. Then do what ever else the builder recommends to me. Definitely out of my comfort zone here. First engine tear down / build up cherry pop will always be nervous suppose.

 

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On 29/07/2022 at 1:02 PM, Puffwagon said:

May as well add in some rods and pistons too ;)

 

Haha fixes an oil leak, gets built motor instead :roflmbo:

 

F@ck you Puffwagon 😜. I knew this would happen.

 

Just got back from powerhouse. Bores are out of round, and 5 thou over at the worst spot. Bearings are finished. Pistons to loose to re-use. Placed an order for Nitto rods and pistons.  

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 6m 28d
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going to re-bore and re-sleeve? or just make the bore slightly wider in them all and get oversize pistons etc?

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Based on a very basic initial inspection John suggested 0.5mm oversize might get me going. I guess once they get into further after boring it if it needs to go further I'll leave that decision in there capable hands.

 

I like it how anyone in the future that reads this thread and wants to fix there oil leak can see how far it can end up going once you start to pull sh*t apart and realise it's farked.

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Couple of questions for the brains trust fellows now that the rebuild spec has changed...

 

Full disclosure post rebuild mods list for my FG ute, anything that is new to the build is marked as such for your reference.

  • GT3582 housing. Pulsar gen 2 CHRA (new), Process West stepped cooler and hard piping kit. IWG75 internal wastegate with 12psi spring. Flapper port mod.
  • Stock air intake / crossover with airbox hole cut mod, K&N panel filter.
  • 4" dump into 3.5" catless mid section into 3.5" x-Force rear section.
  • OEM cams (new) on a fresh rebuilt head. ARP bolts in the right spots (new). OEM crank, ACL bearings (new), Nitto (CP) pistons and rods (new), Empire oil pump gears and backing plate (new), Empire HD timing chain and guide kit (new). 
  • Walbro 460 in tank, flex fuel sensor, OEM fuel reg, 1000cc injectors, OEM fuel supply lines and rails.

Before the rebuild I was street tuned at 370rwkw(98) and 450rwkw(e85) based on virtual dyno results with no corrections on a perfect piece of road using the included BF ute settings for the drag coefficient, weight and tyre. Bugger all difference in output from smoothing 2 to smoothing 6 which indicates a good read. Still nothing beats and is as good as a real dyno, I get it.

 

So here is what I'm proposing. I'd appreciate some sanity checks here:

Can I squeeze her into the 500 club (E85)?

Thinking the stock ZF wont survive? 

Do I need to stop the diff torque twisting?

Driveshaft upgrade?

Will see if I can it to boost up to 21psi in the mid then let it taper down to wherever it lands with WGDC still providing a little bit of overhead.

A decent whack of E85 timing.

Wideband reading a flat 0.82.

Permaseal MLS head gasket still be ok?

 

Cheers all, legends!

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