Melbourne Servicing

[Puffwagon]

Here is an ebay listing for o-rings.

[Slash737]

thanks Puff. After cleaning it up a few times its not leaking from the o-ring. its leaking from the small hose under the housing that joins the coolant pipe to the turbo cooling pipe. Looks like the clamps are not clamping enough.

But I have another issue, I still have engine oil dripping from the bottom of the bell housing like before. APS changed the rear main seal. So is there anything else that would cause engine oil to form under the bell housing?

[Puffwagon]

Yeah those clamps are always loose, tighten them up a bit and you should be good.

 

Due to how windy it is when you're driving, leaked oil can travel a long way from the source.

 

The way to pinpoint a leak is to clean everything, then go for a lap of the block to see where the fresh oil is. As far as what else could be leaking in that area, it's rocker cover, head, sump and rear main seal, front seal of the trans or csc if it's manual. It'll all collect at the lowest point which is the bottom of the bell housing.

 

So yerp, give it a clean and see if it comes back. You'd think they would have cleaned it all up when they replaced the rear main, but if they didn't it could just be residual.

 

Yay for oil leaks 

[Slash737]

Yes it was all clean when I picked it up, had a good look. No leaks up top as they replaced the head gasket also. Must be the sump gasket. I'll give them a call and have a chat.

When the leak first started I degreased everything and it would come straight back with no signs of coming up top. The rocker cover has always been dry.I have the zf auto and definately not trans oil has it has red oil.

[Puffwagon]

I wouldn't decide that it's the sump until it's been properly diagnosed, the turbo oil drain is on that level and could be blowing to the back of the engine. Perhaps someone put the rear main in dry in which case it could have started leaking again. At any rate a phone call and further inspection should get you to the bottom of it.

[Slash737]

After the chat I had with APS, they assured me they used a geniune rear main seal, there was evidence it had a leak and there was no damage on the shaft so doubted it is leaking again. They would like to inspect it after I put a few more k's on it. But sugested it must be the half moon sump gasket leaking. To take the sump off and reseal, they lower the k frame and costing just over the $1000 mark. Does that sound aboout right?

[Puffwagon]

Yeah there is a fair bit of work that goes into removing the sump. They are right, you have to lower the front sub frame, which involves supporting the engine and removing the engine mount nuts, remove the turbo oil drain, remove the alternator mount, undoing/lowering/supporting subframe, undo the main cap cross bolts, undo some bell housing bolts, undo all the sump bolts, remove the sump, clean the sump, block and lower timing cover surfaces, supply and fit gaskets and reassemble it. Haha I may have forgotten a step there, but it is a lot of work.

 

I wouldn't expect a workshop to do it for any less than the quote, it's just the nature of business.

[El Andrew]

I had the sump, rocker cover and timing cover resealed by Ford a couple of years back for $900 all up. Then sump only for about $500 last year after the sump was damaged and had to be replaced.

Was the one time I found Ford cheaper than elsewhere as they seem to know how to do it quickly.

[Slash737]

I did ring my local ford dealer for their price. They were going to charge for 8 hours labour so starting price was $1300. I will be going back to APS in a couple of weeks to hopefully get this leak sorted. Seems to be leaking a little more now than before I had the work done but this could be due to the engine oil they used. I never asked what oil grade.

[bossmang]

well ford wanted 350 bux to do an oil change on my focus. its just a 2010 n/a lol