05xrt6 Member 28 Member For: 3y 7m 24d Posted 17/05/21 05:38 AM Author Share Posted 17/05/21 05:38 AM Na I am pretty sure its built ive got 3 cars at my place with the btr but this one does seems really tight, 2nd gear actually wheel spins aswell, so I am pretty sure its built. SILLY QUESTION: As for the green top, would a N/A green top do? If yes then isnt that basically throwing all the turbo components into a N/A engine? Or am I just changing the bottom end into green top? Sorry guys but I am gonna be asking them silly question as I am very new to the scene so just excuse me for the silly questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRYME Member 313 Member For: 3y 10m 15d Posted 17/05/21 06:18 AM Share Posted 17/05/21 06:18 AM (edited) I would swap the entire engine out rather then taking two engines apart as a 248k engines valve springs are Probably tired and depending on maintenance could have shagged cams and timing gear as well there's no such thing as a factory turbo green top all green tops were NA gas motors but that's a good engine for boost no such thing as a silly question ask away,, there is heaps of info already on the forum 99% of the questions you will want to ask have answers already on the forum so search away Edited 17/05/21 06:21 AM by TRYME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05xrt6 Member 28 Member For: 3y 7m 24d Posted 17/05/21 08:04 AM Author Share Posted 17/05/21 08:04 AM Just to confirm 1. Get a green top barra 2.take mine out 3.put the green top in 4.swap all the turbo components onto the dirty greentop Now ready to make booooost And get a zf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRYME Member 313 Member For: 3y 10m 15d Posted 17/05/21 08:10 AM Share Posted 17/05/21 08:10 AM Skip the ZF if the BTR is built just drop that into your turbo, ZFs are very expensive to play with when there's issues and then theres the whole mating it to the car debarcle don't really see it being worth your cash for what im assuming you want to do...... Yea you got the right idea but the green top Will Still need The supporting stuff like fuel system and intercooler to make good power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05xrt6 Member 28 Member For: 3y 7m 24d Posted 17/05/21 08:35 AM Author Share Posted 17/05/21 08:35 AM Done I am in the market for a greentop now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRYME Member 313 Member For: 3y 10m 15d Posted 17/05/21 09:58 AM Share Posted 17/05/21 09:58 AM Perfect man good work!! Keep us posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Andrew Gold Donating Members 2,036 Member For: 9y 8m 17d Gender: Male Location: Canberra ACT Posted 17/05/21 12:44 PM Share Posted 17/05/21 12:44 PM Is it just me, or if you are buying a motor so you don't break your current motor, you might as well go full send on your current motor?If it breaks, then buy a motor like you were already planning...If it doesn't break, then happy days...'Weak' is relative to the later Barras - you can still have a turbo Barra motor at 280-300 and if it is well tuned and maintenance kept up there's no reason why it won't be a fun, reliable street car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRYME Member 313 Member For: 3y 10m 15d Posted 17/05/21 01:41 PM Share Posted 17/05/21 01:41 PM El Andrew you have a fair point, not saying your wrong or anything but I was just looking at it in a different way ..... I was looking at it in the way of saving the guy money in paying for tuning twice as well as the fact the motors got an unknown history and 250clicks is a lot of kays.... I know it's a Barra but still back when I had a BA everyone said oh 300 is cool for a BA no worries... I was running a 290rwkw tune from autotech and at around 130 clicks motor was rooted.. and I took good care of that car Maintenance wise.... my Good friend also lunched his BA engine running similar power tuned by C&V..... tbh I personally don't think a BA engine with that many Kays with an unknown maintenance history has any business seeing more boost but then again your right he mite want to just send it and see how it goes....... but I still reckon he's better off with the gas motor from The beginning only pay for a tune once and he can lean on it more give it a proper hiding and not have the worry in his mind that Rodney mite appear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05xrt6 Member 28 Member For: 3y 7m 24d Posted 18/05/21 12:17 AM Author Share Posted 18/05/21 12:17 AM (edited) Hey guys (its me again lol) I was going to attempt to block the bov, does anyone have a diagram of where the bov is and which two holes I should be blocking, I dont wanna be taking out and blocking random pipes, Any help appreciated! Edited 18/05/21 12:18 AM by 05xrt6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 29,125 Member For: 16y 8m 30d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 18/05/21 01:50 AM Share Posted 18/05/21 01:50 AM there's 3 pipes going to the BOV: two bigger ones including one from the throttle body side of the cross-over (underneath) and it goes to the "inlet" for the BOV and the other one goes from the "outlet" which is a pipe that goes to the "fresh air" side of the crossover. The third one is a smaller vacuum hose that goes from the "top" of the BOV to a t-piece connected to the inlet manifold. With the option of "disabling" the BOV, you take the "top" one off and plug the vacuum hose with a screw that digs into the hose to seal it from being able to vent to atmosphere. With the option of "removing" the BOV, you do the same blocking for the "top" as well as removing to the two bigger pipes and then plugging the parts left empty with chair stoppers (for the least sophisticated option). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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