The Daily's Quest for 310KW!

[biddie_fiddler]

My fuel pump connectors arrived yesterday and I got straight into giving em a crack! Lucky there was a spare terminal cause I fkd one up, not the end of the world though!

 

I made a real basic loom for the fuel pump wiring, but should work great for the new fuel pump! Wiring for the pump is 25A rated which should hopefully be enough for the 525  

The original fuel pump wiring is used to switch a relay, which will provide switched power to the pump via the larger gauge wiring. Didn't take photos of the rear end electrical board, but its not finished yet so you'll have to be patient.

 

Basically, I have 2AWG running from the battery to the back of the car for the amps. I've now replaced the 2-way distribution block and replaced it with a 3-way fused distribution block, 1 for each amp and a 3rd for a fuse box. Just next to this is a line of relay holders, 3 of them to be exact but I can add more. I only need 1 relay but its nice to have options. The tail lights I'm designing will need a constant 12V power source that will run from the fuse box too. 

I might need to change out the 2AWG wire for something a bit bigger in the future if I end up pushing the amps to their max potential, will be on the limits og the 2AWG if all is running full tilt at once.

 

In any case, here is my fine work on the pump loom  

If you look closely, like I think I've mentioned before in this thread, you can see that random black wiring coming from the fuel cap thing that's connected to the ground of the fuel sender..... I really need to get to the bottom of this lol

 

 

[biddie_fiddler]

Well, it runs again!! Wiring is all complete minus a relay, stole the one from my brothers airbag circuit - thank you bro 😄

 

Got the vac line installed onto the fpr, and got rid of my crappy vacuum port block offs using screws, sealant tape and a hose clamp. Replaced them with silicone vacuum plug things. Cleaned it all up nicely!

 

Here's the video of the startup!

 

I had turned it over a number of times before with the fuel fuse out to get oil through the engine, been sitting a while. 

I then put the fuse back and kept priming the pump till I heard it audibly change in its tone. Verified fuel pressure was present on the gauge and checked for leaks - of which there was none!

 

I have a question about the FPR plumbing setup though, and just want to double check its connected the right way. I'm concerned its incorrect because I still have fuel pressure when I turned the car off. It does gradually go down again but very slowly.

 

Here is what I understand from looking at diagrams. The pump feeds fuel to the engine through the fuel filter - the feed line - which goes into the fuel rail. Then goes through the FPR where the return line goes from the fpr back to the tank. 

I have grabbed an image from the webs of a falcon/territory fuel rail for reference to explain this better. This is what I have it connected like. The fuel filter line connects to the fuel line that goes to the front most part of the rail - I.e. furthest from the fpr. Then the line coming from under the fpr goes back to the tank. 

 

Is the pressure supposed to go straight to 0 when I shut the car off, or is this gradual decrease normal? 

 

 

 

 

Also, how fkn annoying are YT shorts though. 

[Puffwagon]

The 525 has an internal check valve and the 535 doesn't. It's normal to see fuel pressure the next day with a 525.

[biddie_fiddler]

You're a legend, thank you for clearing that up. I did read about the check valves in pumps, made sense why they're there for other reasons, didn't occur to me that they'd close when you turn off the car.

 

So, fpr plumbing is good. I think next on list is to take it to Monsta Torque! 😄

[JETURBO]

Years ago I made contact with Turbosmart regarding the lack of retained fuel pressure with their FPR series units. The best response was that the engineering is behind bleeding off not retaining…. Seems half arsed as maintaining rail pressure is favourable but Turbosmart’s objective is to deliver what is really important and so be it. 
 

What you’re seeing is completely normal and your plumbing is right  

[biddie_fiddler]

Appreciate the response mate!

Glad I didn't f*ck it up! The TS is free flowing, and the pump has a check valve, two things I've learnt today haha

 

Going to see Rob on Wednesday to sort out a plan for the car and book it in. 

We're at the tail end of the "Daily's quest" V2.0. I'm so freaking excited to drive it again 

[biddie_fiddler]

As I said before, I'd share a photo of the backboard of the car. This piece of MDF is actually intended to hold the two amps in the boot. But also works great as a place to mount sh*t.

Its messy, but manageable. I'll eventually remove the amps from the ground block and have them on their own grounds. I just didn't want to drill on the panel just below the MDF (where the hanger is mounted) because I was scared the fuel tank was behind it, and that would be a bad time hahah. Hopefully the pump doesn't cause too much electrical noise for the amps, if it does I'll consider making a noise suppression board to reduce it. In time, though  

 

EDIT:

This board is also not final, I have done a lot of drilling and screwing and sh*t to it, so I will be cutting out another one in the future and redoing the power wiring for the amps. This is perfectly fine for now

Edited 07/09/22 12:35 AM by biddie_fiddler

[biddie_fiddler]

Righto, saw Rob and the team at MT yesterday and we have a game plan. Car will dropped off in a few weeks

 

E85 is not happening yet, I had to make the call. 

 

For some back story, the last log book service the car had was at MT, and it was noted that my diff bush housing is starting to crack. Classic falcon doing classic falcon things. I had completely forgotten about this. They will be fitting the Ultrex 4" zorst for me, and the cradle needs to be dropped to do this. Rob suggested that we have a crack at fixing the diff while its out, which then lead into a quote for an IMS diff hat....

 

So, no e85 this time around and instead its getting the IMS. Tbh, probably the more mature option - fixing the car rather than adding even more power to it.

 

With that said, its going in for fitting springs, head studs, exhaust. IMS diff hat will be installed and a retune on BP98.

 

With the current setup we should see the car juuuuust tip in to the 400kw range. Will post more when I know more. 

 

Cheers all the mad lads and lasses on this forum that has gotten me to where I am now. Seriously, couldn't have done all this without all your help  

[k31th]

Sounds like a good plan E85 is always something you can do later.

[biddie_fiddler]

Exactly  

 

Rob and Dale made a few very good points

 

100% e85 is fine, until you NEED fuel and you're not close to a united. Then you're fked. 

The car isn't driven every day, so the fuel will sit, and e85 no like sitting... 

 

So, they said that if you do want e85 tune, that's completely fine. But you're gonna want to have a multi tune so you can at the very least switch fuel and tunes to have the flexibility. 

All up that would add 2k to the bill for PCMtec credits and tuning. 

 

No ty, I'll back back another time for that 🤣

 

Also, found out today that the IMS diff hat uses Toyota bushes, no wonder they're so reliable!