The Daily's Quest for 310KW!

[4321]

seen quite a few of them stripped, often thought of grinding the edge of a 6mm nut and fitting it to a longer bolt (can see the tip of the bolt behind p/s pump) but the idea never went further than a thought!

[biddie_fiddler]

Have had a bit of a google around, but can't really find much of a solution... Doesn't help that I don't know what size the bolt is 🤣

I'm guessing M8x1.25 because that appears to be a common size around this motor

 

I did find some M8 studs that are 130mm long, the factory bolt is about 120mm, so those might work... But not sure how I feel about using studs

Edited 28/03/22 01:02 AM by biddie_fiddler

[k31th]

take the bolt to an engineering place and get them to sort out the bolt size/quality/thread-pitch etc and get them to lathe you up another one it won't be cheap to do it that way, but the job will be done properly haha

[biddie_fiddler]

Yea it is an option.... Could make it an aftermarket part and resell for big bux

 

All seriousness though, if it is M8x1.25, there is a bolt option from the UK, just a cheap £18 per bolt... Ends up being $32ish AUD without shipping!

[Puffwagon]

I had a stripped one of those and a helicoil later it was sorted. Fortunately I had the head off at the time and went through and fixed all the threads. I spose it wouldn't be the end of the world to pull the timing cover to fix it.

[biddie_fiddler]

Helicoil is the best solution for this yea. It'd be a stronger thread once done.
I am not keen on removing the timing cover though. I'd need more tools I don't have, like a balancer pulley. I've heard that the pulley bolt is a massive *beep* to remove with auto cars too.

I know that if I remove all stuff from the front of the motor, I'd end up buying more sh*t like timing chains, better balancers, etc. I cannot do this now 🤣

 

Its just too much work to fix a single thread, and there is plenty thread left over, hence the band-aid solution of finding a longer bolt 😋 

[Puffwagon]

More than likely the timing cover wont leak so you can always just do it up till it slips a bit then leave it there. I've done this in the past and it worked for me.

 

For future reference you can use the most basic puller to get the stock balancer off. You can put a washer at the end of a bolt (where shank and head meet) to go into the balancer and use a nut and washer to hold it into the puller. Obviously there are 3 to do. Aftermarket balancers can also be pulled with the same tool and you only need to chuck 3 bolts through the puller to screw into the balancer.

 

You can bump the bolt loose with the starter motor and breaker bar.

 

24 minutes ago, biddie_fiddler said:

I'd need more tools I don't have

 

Haha you may as well start getting a collection if you wanna keep fixing sh*t on your own. My missus used to give me sh*t for buying heaps of tools until she saw the light

[Rob70]

Mine stripped as well, still had half the thread left in the head though, went to local bolt shop and got a longer one no probs at all, just with a normal hex head though, installed it and torqued up, just as it got to 17nm I think it is, the farkin thing decided to start stripping again! I stopped and just left it alone hoping it was tight enough for the goop to seal up, it was fine for awhile but I have a slight oil leak now and suspect its coming from timing cover where that bolt is, will pull cover and helicoil the head when I get around to it, dam head material must be pretty soft.

[biddie_fiddler]

@Rob70that sucks hahah

Do you remember the size you got? Is it M8x1.25mm?  

[Rob70]

Yes it is, ol mate gave me 2, one measured 130mm from under the head, the other 140mm, I used the 140 just to make sure all the threads left in the head were going to be used. On further inspection today it appears my leak is coming from lower on the timing case, behind the ps pump somewhere, job for another day, it's stuff all anyway at the moment. Point being the longer bolt should work fine, maybe just torque to slightly less by 2 or 3 NM? Shouldn't be an issue.