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The Daily's Quest for 310KW!


biddie_fiddler

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Member For: 5y 8m 25d
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  • Location: Perth, WA

Anyone here know much about garrett turbine housings?

 

Been trying to find information on what the gt turbine housings are made of? 

Pretty certain its cast stainless but I can't find anything on Garrett's site confirming this. Just people selling them online that say "stainless".

Looking for more definitive proof that they are stainless 😂

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 10m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

My vote is cast iron. They grind very easily and they are cast so yerp that's my hypotenuse.

 

Also this... https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/turbocharger-turbine-housings/product-line/garrett-turbine-housings

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Member For: 5y 8m 25d
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Done some more digging, looks like you're right puff.

 

Stainless cast housings are available but they are made by other companies, like tial.

If its garrett made, it'll be cast iron.

 

Cheers for the help :) 

 

Off to give this info to my local zorst shop and see if he's keen on welding it up for me

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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So I've decided that because my car is currently broken that I'd break it even more because I'm smart :) 

 

Taken the instrument cluster out and have disassembled it so I can replace some LEDs with brighter and potentially different colour variants.

Removing the instrument cluster was easy as! Just followed the steps in the workshop manual 413-01. 

 

Taking apart the dash itself was real easy too! all held together with clips that seem like they were designed to unclipped easily - good stuff Ford Engineers!

 

9Ay9Lgh.jpg

 

Removed an LED and confirmed the size and tested it to find some specs to get a better idea of my LED options, so now begins the hunt for the LED colours I'd like :) 

 

CpQ5LLC.jpg

 

This is an LED that illuminates the Revs and speedo, seems to be an off-ish blue

qNTCNRn.jpg

 

If all goes well, I'll defs do a writeup of the disassembly process, LED removal, LED choices, and then fitting and reassembling the cluster. This is gonna be a fun little project

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Location: Perth, WA

Also took this opportunity to try get info on the lcd that sits in the centre of the cluster because mine has some annoying blotch kinda thing in part of it. I wanna replace it but there is not a single marking on the panel that I can use to find what the display is and if I can get a replacement 😞 

 

Might have to look at buying a second hand cluster that has a clean display that I can use

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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Looks like this is the LED I'll be going with to illuminate the gauges (revs, speedo, temp, and fuel) and the user input buttons on the sides of the cluster (up, down, ok, menu and odo). 

 

I have used CREE LEDs in the past with work, they manufacture very efficient LEDs, in other words they bright as fk.

 

I'd love to use their red variant too for the needles but I can't get the gauge stepper motor cover off easily so I'll probably just leave it. I would love to get another cluster to maybe attempt this. Sure as sh*t not doing it with mine unless I know how to do it.

 

The only annoying thing with cree leds is that they reverse their pin indication marks from what it standard, so they have to go on the opposite way to the ones currently on the cluster. Hopefully I remember this lol

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 10m 24d
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  • Location: South Australia

Put a post it note on there to remind you. Very useful for things like that, along with no oil, no coolant, get toilet paper and lube at the next shopping day etc etc.

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  • [IMPULSIV3]
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  • Member For: 5y 8m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Used my amazing photoshop skills and stitched together a pano of the board. This one is 40% the size of the original because imgur 🤣

0GGYfsc.jpg

 

I have marked the cathode of every LED I plan on replacing with a black dot on the PCB. I will however make it more clear in photoshop which is the +ve and -ve, and I will also label the colours.

 

I figured out how the stepper motors are connected to the PCB and nearly got one off, but it was still a little "sticky" on the board so I've completely scrapped the idea of replacing the needle LEDs. 

 

I have also been looking around the google to see if I can find some info on how to recalibrate the dials, seems like a thing PCMTEC can do but not sure how to do it. All data bar the fuel gauge is taken via CANbus, so there's gotta be a way to do it. 

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