Puffwagon's Territory Adventures

[Puffwagon]

OEM will be fine at lower power/boost levels with mild valve springs. If mine managed to rip the teeth off a new tensioner in just a few months then that style is clearly not suitable for high boost, stiff springs, high rpm etc.

Edited 08/02/23 05:28 AM by Puffwagon

[The Unforgiven]

@Puffwagon

 

I'm sure you've gone over it before, but to save me from trawling through 150 pages, are you able to give me a run-down of what you've done by way of fuelling, specifically with an anti-surge tank setup?

 

As you'd know there's absolutely nothing available off-the-shelf, so I'd be keen to hear about what someone who's (reliably) running big power through a Territory Turbo has done to make it work.

 

I've searched this forum and Territory Facebook pages, with the latter only uncovering a range of different setups, many which are cheap/dodgy looking, and ended up being unreliable.

[Puffwagon]

I don't have a surge tank yet as I wanted to test the limits of an intake setup. I have 2 Walbro 525's in the stock swirl pot that feed through the stock plastic and steel line.

 

I've chopped the bottom of the pot off entirely now to get the pumps right to the bottom of the tank. This resulted in not being able to use the last 20 litres of fuel due to fuel slosh, so wasn't the right thing to do.

 

I did have the pot partially chopped for a long time, retaining the rear section and that helped with keeping fuel to the pumps. To be honest, all of the above is not what I'd recommend doing, as a surge tank is a much better solution.

 

I've heard of someone fitting the process west falcon surge tank to a territory, however I didn't follow up with how it turned out.

 

What you do depends on how much power you intend to run. My pumps are completely maxed out and having 3 X 525s is not a good idea. The way up from there is either brushless electric or mechanical. Elixir have great intank pumps at a premium price and mechanical is obviously all custom.

 

At any rate pretty much everything is custom work at this power level, and certainly is when chasing more power again.

[The Unforgiven]

Thanks for detailing your experiences.

 

I do not plan on running any more than 400awkw.  I want to keep the stock bottom end, while doing valve springs and also pump gears/head studs if necessary.

 

I know that a 525 walbro will almost certainly flow enough for what I want, however, it's the inevitable surge from a poorly baffled fuel tank that I want to alleviate.

Edited 12/02/23 02:51 AM by The Unforgiven

[Puffwagon]

No worries, the more we share the good and the bad, the better off we all are.

 

The territories don't suffer from the same issues that the falcons do. They have a different shaped tank and the pump assembly is near the rear of the tank. You can run it extremely low before it sucks air on a wot pull.

 

You'll find that running 400kw will have no issues with fuel surge and a single 460 intank will be all you need. You will want a wiring upgrade and will need a fuel reg upgrade. With a couple of return line mods you'll be 100% sorted for 400kw.

 

After talking with other tuners I'd advise not using a 525 if possible. They use a lot of current which means intank wiring upgrades along with the usual battery feed/relay mod, they heat the fuel up and anecdotally have a higher than preferable failure rate. I will see my fuel as hot as 50c on a summer day.

[Puffwagon]

For the guys wanting to see an update on the engine today... IT AINT HAPPENING!!!! Yeah nah cbf today, that about sums it up. Budget says 6 to 8 weeks for a fix so yerp, I'll pull it down sometime in that time frame. Gotta check out the SPICY Adelaide weather we're about to cop, not gonna be outside working on the car until it cools down a bit.

 

So yerp there's that. Happy days

[The Unforgiven]

Interesting. 

 

I was talking with a certain workshop in Victoria that has a lot of experience with the Territory platform and I was told that at 400awkw, I would experience fuel surge without a surge tank of some description.

 

I did ask if they would send a fuel system which they've developed over the border and the answer was no.  So, I've been in two minds about whether or not to bolt up what I can myself, then drive over and have them fit the rest of the parts and tune it.

 

I'm pretty handy with the tools, but I have a poor setup at home with a sloping driveway, and my shed/hoist is still a while away, so I won't be able to do the Territory fuel system as it needs to be dropped, unlike my FG.

 

It's all a matter of finding a reputable workshop here in S.A. that's a problem.  So much conflicting information I hear, which just leaves me with more questions than answers.

 

I hope it is as easy as fitting a 460 Walbro with the requisite wiring upgrades for my intended power levels.  If I can be good to go, with the likelihood of fuel surge being low, with such a run-of-the-mill upgrade, I'd be stoked.

 

I appreciate your response.

[Puffwagon]

38 minutes ago, The Unforgiven said:

I hope it is as easy as fitting a 460 Walbro with the requisite wiring upgrades for my intended power levels.

 

It's what I would do man. You can drop the tank in the driveway on jackstands easily enough when you know the process. If you need pointers on dropping the tank, I'll be happy to help.

[The Unforgiven]

On 14/12/2022 at 1:29 PM, hjtrbo said:

Going back to my karting days I tie wired everything. I reckon that'll sort the housing bolts backing out. Had the issue on the Garret as well, perhaps not just a Pulsar thing.

 

Note to the new tie wire players,

• Remove bolts, clean threads, re-install and torque down to spec. 
• Mark all bolts where they are situated and also mark the most logical flat face for the hole to be drilled through. 
• Remove all bolts and drill a 1.5mm hole through the bolt. You need to use a drill press on high speed (1400+rpm works). Best of luck with a battery drill, it can be done with a steady stance and good continual drill alignment. 
• Do a good job, use logic with the hole placement and with the right tools and it can look very professional. 

(Google Image)

 

(Good price)

We commonly adopt this method of using "mousing wire" as we call it on drilling rigs when it's critical that fasteners don't undo themselves.

[The Unforgiven]

On 08/02/2023 at 3:36 PM, Typhoon said:

I run this one mate.

 

https://www.dynomiteperformance.com.au/product-page/mechanical-timing-chain-adjuster

 

An absolute *beep* to adjust, but once you do it’s fairly well set and forget. 

 

Do need to run a billet guide with it however as it beats the hell out of the oem cast item.

 

no issues, just need to always replace the oem guide as they are soft cast, we’re the billet guides are just tougher, and last.

 

The Atomic tensioners have got an absolute shocking reputation as of late.

 

Its been all over facebook

 

Use OEM or mechanical type,

 

With mechanical type the oil feed needs to be threaded and blocked.

I can vouch for having heard the same thing. From what I've read, Atomic used another brand (Nason I think it was) for its tensioners and these are reportedly the ones supplied in the problematic batch.

 

I was told many moons ago by someone in the know that it's always ideal to retain the factory tensioner for as long as possible as it has an in-built check valve that retains oil pressure in the tensioner, thus limiting load that can be applied to the tensioner teeth.

 

Atomic is otherwise a great company who's produced quality products for Barras for the last two decades.  I'll still be using all of their products if/when the need arises, sans the timing chain tensioner.