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Puffwagon's Territory Adventures


Puffwagon

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia
1 hour ago, JETURBO said:

what the fark is with your flex plate and the massive amount of material you’ve ground off it from the rim ? That things balanced within a % new and yours is now way unbalanced which is amplifying everything on that mating point.

Bruh you really think I did that? :yikes:

 

I got this one from Goleby's and I noticed the damage before I installed it 2 years ago. I called Atomic, spoke to Brad and he said the damage was from the tool crashing into the flex plate. He said it was a prototype and it shouldn't have been sent out. I asked about balance and he said it won't affect it and it'll be fine.

 

I bought another one recently and it has the same marking on it.

 

I rang Atomic just now and asked about it again, they assured me it's completely fine and won't affect anything, they even have one like that in their own car.

 

They asked about the car a bit and are still satisfied that the flex plate won't cause any issues.

 

They said run 6 dowel pins, plenty of Loctite and the locking washers and it'll be good to go. They said they dowel anything over 550kw.

 

They also said when making huge hp to run an ATI balancer as the Ross balancer I'm currently running is still a bonded balancer.

 

1 hour ago, JETURBO said:

Anything over 600kw needs Dowel pins as a pretty standard rule due to that shear torque being generated

Haha you might have mentioned that a year ago lol, I already worked it out the hard way ;)

 

 

Other random info for the thread readers here, the bolts I have now are grade 12.9 so as good as you can get in this application. In my reading I found that the bolts don't actually stop the flexplate from spinning, it's the friction cause by the bolts holding the flexplate to the crank that grips it up. Obviously the bolts are doing something and having 6 dowels in there will help out even more. 

 

Haha at this rate I'll have it dowelled, welded, steel puttied and have double row oil pump gears installed :roflmbo:

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Allllllrighty then. I've got a bunch of dowels ordered that should arrive tomorrow and a tool that @hjtrbo made arrived today. I trial fitted it to a spare crank today and it all fits up nicely. It incorporates a removable mandrel to keep the drill bit more straighterer and being a part that will cop some wear, it's good that it is easily replaceable without having to remake the whole tool. At this rate I'll be back up and running this weekend. Gonna get a few longer bolts today for the dowelling tool, the studs I used were just to test fit it.

 

Cheers to all that contributed to the conversation, if it wasn't for you blokes I would have just sent it again, I didn't even know you should dowel a crank!

 

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  • Member For: 13y 10m 2d

Hope it works out puff. The reamers I ordered arrived today. Version 2 of that tool will have wrist pin precision for the mandrel fit. 

$40 bucks worth of 1020 and 4140 steel and some shed time on the lathe and mill. Sure cheaper than atomics $469 tool. 

Probs can rent it out to regular forum contributors for a beer money fee for mandrel maintenance. PM if you need it. 

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia
2 hours ago, Tom Tucker said:

Dudes helping dudes

 

That is the gheyest thing I've read all day :riaa:Haha you should have seen the recipe I shared with him!!!

 

Yeah the thing worked out good, I got some longer bolts and tried it out on a spare crank. Went through the flex plate piss easy and the crank took farken ages. I'm not looking forward to doing it with the engine in the car but I'll get it done. If anyone was wondering I went 15mm into the crank. The end of the crank is 25mm and the original bolt holes are 22.5mm deep, so I left some material there to not weaken the end of the crank too much. Anyhow fark that for a job, it's beer o clock :drinks:

 

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Nah they arrive tomorrow. The drill bit is 9.9mm so should be in the ballpark. I have another drill bit that is 9.95mm so can open it up if needed. Will see what it looks like in the morning anyway.

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Awesome. They usually drill oversize just a tad. Hoping it all works out. Plan B is to go to a taper pin and ream a taper into the crank holes and flex plate. We don't want to go to plan B. So a 2nd 5mm mandrel for pilot holes is a good idea then :). Lucky you've been working out🏋️‍♀️

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

I did hand drill the flex plate with a 5mm bit after I marked it out. A 5mm mandrel would be the go for the crank, it took some effort to send the 10mm bit through. Haha I'll get it done but it won't be because I like it lol.

 

My plan b is the tig welder, but I doubt it'll come to that.

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