gaz097 Bronze Donating Members 1,752 Member For: 13y 4m 20d Posted 13/07/21 01:31 AM Share Posted 13/07/21 01:31 AM What, where from have you order'd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,958 Member For: 9y 10m 12d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 13/07/21 01:35 AM Author Share Posted 13/07/21 01:35 AM I bought a while 6r80 a while ago so I'll use the various bits from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,958 Member For: 9y 10m 12d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 18/07/21 10:43 AM Author Share Posted 18/07/21 10:43 AM So yerp pulled the 6r80 down today. Nothing looks too rooted in it, not that I'm a seasoned trans builder or anything. All of the steels are in good condition and all of the shafts/gears etc look and feel alright too. I'll get to measuring later in the week to confirm stuff. The car that the trans came out of had a torque converter failure and had put some metal into the trans which is why I only paid $50 for it. I pulled the trans pump apart to have a look, as that will be where the metal starts it's journey into the trans. Sure enough the small inner gear has some damage and the pump cover has some damage too. It's not so farked that it wouldn't work at all but I'd rather do things more proplyer so will address it. I reckon I'll swap out the stator shaft from the 6r80 into one of the zf pumps and use that, otherwise I can get a 6r80 pump for about $500, or there might be something else I can do with parts/gear swapping etc. The bushes in it need replacing so I'll go for a bronze bush kit, along with a couple of other bits to recon the zf valve body, replace needle roller bearings as one had fallen apart, and whatever else needs replacing apart from seals, as they will all get done anyway. So yeh that's about it really. Will drop off the input shaft and converter on Wednesday and see how we go from there. I was thinking about cryo treating the output shaft too just for more peace of mind. I'm leaning toward keeping the stock converter now as it has a better lockup than a single disc gm converter but I'll see what the trans guy reckons, as it might not be up to the power level I'm going to throw at it. Haha one part of me wants to just buy a built trans but I'll have a crack at it myself first and if I fark it up, I'll reevaluate then. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,958 Member For: 9y 10m 12d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 13/09/21 09:16 AM Author Share Posted 13/09/21 09:16 AM So yeah nothing much been happening lately but... Last time I drove the car, the turbo was making a zinging noise. Today I figured it was time to do a few more things to the wagon and fixing the turbo was on the list. Long story short, the bolts that hold the compressor housing backing plate on had all come loose and the back of the compressor wheel was rubbing on it. I whacked a small amount of loctite on the bolts, did them back up and whaddaya know, the turbo was magically fine again. I also chopped the vband off the comp housing and welded a cast alloy bend in there. Now the intercooler piping will go a shorter and neater route and will let me install my 5 inch intake pipe. I'll frig around with the intake pipe tomorrow and weld a fitting to it for the catch can and it should be sweet. Pics 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 29,031 Member For: 16y 8m 1d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 13/09/21 09:36 AM Share Posted 13/09/21 09:36 AM oooo turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,958 Member For: 9y 10m 12d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 13/09/21 11:25 AM Author Share Posted 13/09/21 11:25 AM (edited) Here da more pics. So basically cut the vband off the turbo, welded the cast alloy 3 inch bend to the comp housing, then welded the chopped off vband on to the cast alloy bend, which then has a 2.75 to 2.5 reducer welded to the other half of the vband, to fit the cooler piping. Does that make sense?! Edited 13/09/21 11:56 AM by Puffwagon A number 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 29,031 Member For: 16y 8m 1d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 13/09/21 11:55 AM Share Posted 13/09/21 11:55 AM mate, everything you say always makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biddie_fiddler [IMPULSIV3] Donating Members 1,374 Member For: 5y 8m 13d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 14/09/21 12:16 AM Share Posted 14/09/21 12:16 AM On the topic of IC piping sizes... Is there any information on diameter size and power handling? I.e. 2.5" piping is good for up to xxxkw. 2.75" is good for up to xxxkw etc. Companies sell different sizes as "stages". Wondering if the piping size is realllly that important? @PuffwagonI take it then you're using 2.5" piping on the hot side? Assuming the same is for the cold side too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boakesautomarine Member 49 Member For: 4y 9m Posted 14/09/21 01:14 AM Share Posted 14/09/21 01:14 AM That’s always been a hard one , I currently I’m using 3 but about to go to 3.5 on the new setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffwagon Puff Gold Donating Members 15,958 Member For: 9y 10m 12d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 14/09/21 01:39 AM Author Share Posted 14/09/21 01:39 AM I'm using 2.5 in and out right now and I'm still using the stock throttle body. I'd only consider changing the pipe size if I swapped a whole bunch of other parts to take it past 1000awkw. Currently it all works at 700awkw so that's where it'll stay for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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