350kw but not much wheel spin

[danielknox281]

G’day! I am wanting to get some opinions/advice about my bamk2 Ute. I bought it a few years ago tuned with a “moderate street tune” at 350kw 20psi with most standard engine upgrades as well as most of the drive train other than gear box being upgraded.

 

the problem is that it has too much traction, in normal weather etc it can hold almost full traction through all gears. Only on a cold or wet day can it break traction without turning sharply or dropping/kicking the clutch. It shreds my tyres to sh*t once break traction and hold it, but even then it is very quick to regain it when I let off or change gears. I know that it was built and tuned for the track and I think that is mostly my problem. Maybe I just need have it re tuned  butany my advice is appreciated thanks.

 

It has a true track diff and it starts coming on to boost at 3k (is that late?)

[k31th]

350kW is low for 20psi.

 

20psi is nothing like a "moderate street tune". that's definitely higher boost than most.

 

if it's not wheelspinning in any weather with 20psi then you either have the boost coming on extremely slowly in the tune or you have sticky tyres or both.

 

by the sounds of it you definitely need a new tune.

 

starting to come on boost at 3k sounds like a boost leak... but if it's making 20psi in the top end, then there's probably not a boost leak, so I'm a bit at a loss as to what would specifically cause that scenario without doing some serious testing/thinking.

[danielknox281]

I know 20psi is quite a bit but I figured most people around the 300 350 mark we’re running similar boost. Like I said boost starts around 3k, comes on slowly and spikes hard at maybe 4K and my that time it’s hauling ass too much to lose traction. when cutting hoops it will bake my tyres but it will throw itself around very fast and charge forward as soon as I correct the steering as it still has a decent amount of traction

 

I have heard of people with less than 300kw having a daily struggle of losing traction everywhere so something is fairly different in my car. Had it tested for boost and vacuum leak a while ago when trying to diagnose a misfire and all good. Should still be fine. I’m not certain it still makes 20psi as Its hard to pay close attention to my boost gage when it’s on full boost lol.

[Bulletime]

Run it down the quarter and see what it gets. Theres very much a difference between “feels fast” and actually being fast. Breaking traction and seeming mental is actually slow at those power levels.

Take running factory dunflops as an example, they broke traction and felt wild. Then add some real grip and itll hook up but will likely be pretty fast. I had a run stock v stock yrs ago vs a mate. I had great rubber and him povo, I blitzed him by car lengths up through 1st and 2nd.

Its cool too if u want feels fast vs actually fast, its possible u just need more power and or sh*tter tyres

[k31th]

1 hour ago, danielknox281 said:

I know 20psi is quite a bit but I figured most people around the 300 350 mark we’re running similar boost. Like I said boost starts around 3k, comes on slowly and spikes hard at maybe 4K and my that time it’s hauling ass too much to lose traction. when cutting hoops it will bake my tyres but it will throw itself around very fast and charge forward as soon as I correct the steering as it still has a decent amount of traction

 

I have heard of people with less than 300kw having a daily struggle of losing traction everywhere so something is fairly different in my car. Had it tested for boost and vacuum leak a while ago when trying to diagnose a misfire and all good. Should still be fine. I’m not certain it still makes 20psi as Its hard to pay close attention to my boost gage when it’s on full boost lol.

300kW is plenty to bake tyres... still; get a new tuner.

[sixman]

Surely this is a deliberate tuning strategy to bring in boost slowly to aid traction?

Diff upgrade helps as well. Sounds like a well sorted out car, no?

 

350rwkw with traction would be awesome to me! Most of the time at that sort of power level on the street  guys are just spinning wheels.

 

Who did the tune? Do you have a dynograph?

 

In the current cold weather I struggle for any traction, go back to P98 from E85. I prefer those hot summer nights where the hot tarmac sticks to our tyres.

[danielknox281]

That is what I would imagine, maybe the tactic of running such high boost for this power is that it comes on late, and then holds traction due to more rolling momentum. Maybe the solution is running 14 or 15 pound boost (or smaller turbo) so that I have my boost spike at 3k rather than 4K? It’s slow at I <3 Bananas before 3k and after that see you later.  Not very useful in the street though by that time you are doing speeds high enough for the cops to crush it if you get caught 👎

 

ideally I I would love to have it tuned with traction control option so I can have the best of both worlds. Ba Ute has no traction control though.

 

I have the dyno sheet but my only option for an upload is from a website URL. How do you guys upload pics?

[Box stock T.]

1 hour ago, danielknox281 said:

Ta👎

I have the dyno sheet but my only option for an upload is from a website URL. How do you guys upload pics?

This is where you come in Keith

 

14- 15 psi is where most 300-350 rwkw tunes are at these days. Many years ago ya would read of tuna's running ridiculous amounts of psi.

Also your tune may be ramped in a non aggressive way to save your skinny rods from bending under 20psi conditions. Given no mention of a built motor.

 

You have not mentioned what type of rubber your running or rim and trye width on the arse end.

Semi slicks with 10 inch rims can cause uber problems if your after a loose tail end happy ute.

[rednose]

20psi is way too much boost for 350kw.

[k31th]

2 hours ago, danielknox281 said:

I have the dyno sheet but my only option for an upload is from a website URL. How do you guys upload pics?