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Engine build pricing


Tom Tucker

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  • Member For: 5y 5m 22d

Just a Gtx3582, maybe 3584RS, 6466. T56 manual. I'm jealous of the guys that can pump 25-30psi into the midrange, such as yourself.

 

Car is 100% a weekender, will do a few track days here and there, nothing serious, just a bit of fun. With the manual box, it's not really worth drag racing, so I doubt I'll ever bother, unless I'm testing trap speeds. Current 400kw is fun, but it's obviously constrained with how much it can be fed. 

 

Long term, I'm hoping to slowly chip away at a resto. Bolt a half cage in, nice light seats, maintain carpet and sound deadening. Think Porche GT3

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  • Member For: 10y 8m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SE Melbourne, Victoria

so many different ways to skin a cat these days

 

qld has many good reputable reconditioning / machining shops

 

you should try going in and chatting with them as opposed to looking for shops that do engine packages

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  • Member For: 5y 5m 22d

I don't disagree, but when you get the head reconditioned and you add valve springs, hd timing gear, a decent harmonic balancer and mid range pistons and rods some places seem to be taking the piss with pricing. Hence my original enquiry

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  • Member For: 15y 7m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

I agree with going to see someone and having a chat to them.

A lot of engine builders are very good salesmen as well.

The flashiest shop doesn’t always do the best work!

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  • Member For: 5y 5m 22d

Thanks man, good advice. I want someone that is meticulous and takes pride in their work. Not a shop that just knocks them out, or claims what they're doing is some sort of secret proprietary dark art to justify ridiculous prices. Looks like your engine came up really nicely from a builder who is genuinely invested in a good outcome :)

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  • Member For: 13y 5m 1d

It's the head, timing gear, cams etc where the cost can really change.

I'd say 5k could build you a tough short block that will easily handle what you want. Rods, pistons, pump gears, bearings. I think the spool short blocks are about 6k with girdle, but is that really required...

If you have a low Kay FG head in good condition with cams id machine it flat then just bolt it down with the latest 12mm head studs. As 14 is probably overkill for your application. Saying that if you do go 14 you can easily solve any boost control issues by just welding the gate shut ;)

Atomic timing chain, lower sprocket, moving guide, and the rest are genuine including tensioner.


Is say 5k in parts and 2-4k in labour depending how much you do yourself.

So 9k to still have some concern over valves/cams etc.

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland
On 15/05/2020 at 7:43 AM, Tom Tucker said:

Hey man, tried to send you a message, but your inbox must be full? 

I made some space.  You should now be able to message me.

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