Oops, cracked the oil pan!

[Draino]

So I'll probably phone Bayford or Jefferson on Tuesday morning for a new one. Heading through the bush back to a mates place on gravel. Up hill and there was a speed hump sized crest I didn't see and hit it at speed. My shocks and springs are quite soft all round from towing horse floats and she went WHACK.

Pulled over immediately and she bled all over the place. Left it where it is, tow truck on Tuesday maybe. Its bent with a small slit, so hopefully the pick up is good. 

 

Do you guys think there is anything needed apart from a pan and gaskets?

[Draino]

 

Damn. Literally just nicked the head of the bolts shoulder and ripped it out like it was cornholing a carcass for tanning. Ive waited until now to start on it. Have new shocks and springs and lbj's to go in. The issue Ive got at the moment is

 

 

How the hell do you get the steering rack out?

 

 

Ford dont sell the steel oil pan as a standalone part: you have to buy the whole alloy cradle/sump together for about $750. Im glad I found a second hand one in top condition as they'd only really come off dead engines.

[k31th]

I don't know if the steering rack removal in the territory is different to a falcon, but it's not too tricky in a falcon and you can see everything from underneath that you need to remove.

[Draino]

I this big old diff in the road! Ive got it all unplugged and can move it around, but theres these big bosses blocking it from being slid out of the passenger side wheel arch. Im thinking the whole subframe has to come down, but to do that it looks like I need to get the damn manifolds off???

Must be a better way.

Edited 21/02/20 05:05 AM by Draino

[Draino]

Okay, thankyou Ford workshop manual. I think I was on the right path anyway. I've removed all the sump pan bolts, and just need a bit more wriggle room to get the pan off.

 

The manual says to undo and remove the front diff bolts x3 and then it will create enough wriggle room to slide the rack or "steering gear" out the drivers side with the ball joint knuckles cracked.

 

Steering column and pencil shafts have to be undone and removed also.

 

But gee that really beats the effort required to drop the whole x-member. A small win. Sweet!

New front springs and shocks, control blades, rear springs and shocks, perches, uca's, lca's, I'm looking forward to solid drives on long gravel roads.

 

Also got my 850 injectors and a flash tuner to get things rolling!

Edited 21/02/20 09:41 AM by Draino

[k31th]

send me a PM with the workshop manual you used?

[Draino]

👍

 

Also, just remember Im only changing out the steel oil pan part of the sump assembly which is less than half the block length, not the full length alloy sump.