My long term tidy up!

[violetpop]

So me and my best mate are going to have a crack at rebuilding my old turbo motor.

The plan is simple with a budget garage style rebuild with a few extras thrown in. Currently looking at options for who can do some good machine work on the block, crank and head. Anyone have any suggestions for a Sydney based machine shop?

The aim is to stay around the high 300 low 400rwkw and use the crank and turbo rods. The pistons are cactus and thinking of using a set of genuine cast pistons.

Then go for valve springs, head studs and ml gasket, oil pump gears, full gasket kit, timing chain kit, new rod bolts, rings and bearings. Gap rings accordingly and triple check bearing clearances etc.

Anything worth addressing in the engine, any tricks. I don't see a need for upgrading the rods or 360 degree thrust for this power level and no clear goal for drag racing the car but happy to hear any input.

Cheers!

[Puffwagon]

$20 for the 360 thrust so stick it in anyway.

 

Extra $3000 for pistons, rods, bearings and machining to suit, on top of what you're already gonna pay.

 

No point spending all that money for a stock motor build when you can spend double and get something that will take handle 30spi/600rwkw all day long.

 

My 2c

[violetpop]

I battle with this problem all the time, spend more and build it up to handle more or keep it simple and around the power level it has now. Trouble is the flow on from more power. Fuel system upgrades, turbo charger, higher chance of breaking stuff transmission etc just adds up to more dollars which I just can't swing and realistically don't need. I still run an under battery intake and a questionable cooler which they rate for 400rwkw so it's surely on the limit as it is.

This is more of a chance for us to get together for some garage time and with no certain plan to actually get it in the car.

I must be confusing a 360 thrust and a torrington bearing if the 360 is an easy fit, its going in for sure.

[Puffwagon]

Fair enough, I know what you mean.

 

Yeah the 360 thrust is literally just the other half of the thrust/main bearing with a thrust side added to it. The main cap is already machined for it so you can just chuck it in... more or less.

[violetpop]

I just noticed a lot of the bearing kits come with it so easy done.

[masda74]

On 04/08/2021 at 4:02 PM, violetpop said:

Pretty bored lately so managed to track down a power steering pump seal kit and pulled apart my old pump. It actually never ran dry and made no noise but just leaked slowly from the big o ring at the rear. Will rebuild and keep for a spare. In other news I tracked down a chunky Fairmont wheel. Condition would be a 7/10 with some minor blemishes but no rips. Feels awesome in your hand when driving the car! Great upgrade.

Ahh dude. I have my power steering with a very slow leak, leaking onto the garage floor.

I believe it is the seals that is gone. I have been told that I am better off replacing the power steering rack all together for like 500 clams.

I am pretty sure it is leaking from where the boot area is.

Would the above kit fix my issue?

[violetpop]

This kit was for the power steering pump not the rack. Never actually got around to fitting the pump that I ran this kit through as the ebay pump I used became quiet all of a sudden. I think you will need to look at a rack swap to fix your problem mate.

[violetpop]

Few hits and misses but car is humming along.

 

The car has developed a damp smell in the last few days and I've started my search to see what's going on. I did wash it last weekend pretty thoroughly so hard to know if I have jammed water in at some point. My buddy's BA has some rust holes under the wipers in the scuttle area and his car fills up with water on the passenger front. I looked at mine and it was mint, could probably even rule it out. Carpets feel dry everywhere I looked so I might need to do some more searching. The roof rack clamps do squash the door rubbers so removing them could be a start. Its raining here in Sydney atm so hoping its easy enough to find.

 

I felt the ac wasn't working as good as it should so had it re gassed. In all the tinkering I've done with the car I have never once looked at the air con and sure enough it was low on gas. So pull gas, 20 minute vacum and gas up. Its cold as now! I also had this issue when I would start the car and the air-conditioning was on it would make this large thump around the passenger floor area or left side firewall. That has disappeared too, win!

Checking out the heater hoses and they are looking pretty average. I some how ended up with the t piece hose already so picked up the second one and will aim to change them soon.

 

Thought I scored a killer deal on a set of 4 bf sr wheels but 2 of them are buckled and 1 is an egg. Big fail!

 

[violetpop]

Fitted up some brembo 4 piston fronts and ba xr8 18s.. When I read the xr8 wheels will fit over the brembos, I decided they were the best rim to keep with the sleeper theme as they are not very 'look at me' fancy or anything.

The goal was to get them on and bled then see how it feels. Will need new pads at a minimum but the current ones have enough life in them to drive the car for a few months while I research which pad I'm going to go with.

Any recommendations for a street pads that can handle the odd windy road would be good.

Will probably end up rebuilding the calipers and then painting them black so they just blend in and don't look too visible.

Trying to sell a few bikes atm which should cover an upgraded zf. I really want to drag race the car this year with some confidence.

[adams355]

Best pad I have used in 25+ years of driving modified cars. I was going to upgrade my brakes until I found these

 

https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Circo-MB1620-S17-Street-Series-S17-Brake-Pads-Front-FPV-4-Pot-BA/BF/FG

 

Put the rears on as well, never seen any street pad shave off speed over 100k's like these, they are decent cold as well. Carbon-ceramic not crappy ceramic pads.