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  • Member For: 5y 4m 15d
Yeah I'm kinda thinking of heading in that direction. A stock style rebuild stock pistons and rods with valve springs, oil pump gears, head studs. Aim for 300rwkw and 12 pounds nothing fancy
  • Puff
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  • Member For: 10y 2m 25d
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  • Location: South Australia
  On 25/08/2020 at 7:30 AM, Puffwagon said:

Yerp that will give you part of a stock rebuild. I looked at this option and then I thought well fark if I'm going to spend $500 on pistons I may as well spend enough and get some forged pistons, then I thought well fark it, I'll get upgraded pins too then I thought fark it and got I beam rods too.

 

While it's out and apart; You'll want better rods too, so they'll need sizing and the crank will need linnishing, then you may as well get oil pump gears, then you may as well get main studs which will mean line honing, and if you're getting it line honed then you may as well get a girdle and get the main caps machined to suit, then you may as well do the flex plate cos you may as well while it's out, then you'll want to at least deck the head, then you may as well get the seats re cut while you're there and get a decent set of springs in it, so you may as well get a full atomic timing kit, and of course you'll be forking out for a full vrs kit which will mean that you may as well get a better head gasket, then you may as well get head studs too cos it's only an extra $250, then you may as well get a balancer cos the stock ones are sh*te, then for all that bullsh*t you may as well buy a giant turbo and if you've got a giant turbo then you'll need a beastly fuel system and then you'll put the whole lot together, break your transmission, replace that, break the diff, replace that, go through a set of tyres and axles every 2 weeks and eventually wish that you'd just bought a honda civic and paid off the mortgage instead.

 

But yeah, nothing wrong with a stock rebuild :)

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Got too lazy to write this again :launch:

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  • Member For: 7y 11m 22d
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I would be calling the tuner asking why it had nearly 21psi in it over 5000rpm. They set up the turbo and the actuator didn't they? I have a very similar turbo by RRT and we were limited to 18psi on 98 @370rwkw (super safe) with a old cooler and stock dump and stock crossover.

Edited by adams355
  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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Ha Fhruck me that was quick 

 

Who knew ..... 🤨

  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 5y 4m 15d
They did set it up yes. As much as I would like that, calling him up and questioning him will likely get me no where. Cms has unfortunately let me down in one way or another pretty much every time I engaged with them. Just 1 week prior to the dyno tune (when they were getting the turbo ready) I told them I was wanting to run a 12-13 psi tune. Calling them up won't change the fact that the motor needs attention.

The plan at this stage is to freshen up the engine, run less boost and enjoy the car. I'm really digging the RRT turbo, the sound has been addictive. The rest of the car is at a good stage with all of the suspension, bushes and mounts done so a fresh motor and easy tune will ensure its reliability and hopefully I can enjoy it for years to come.
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  • Member For: 7y 11m 22d
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First tune I ever had done I got all my money back with no issues ($1000). Just present the facts calmly and see what they say at least. I understand some people don't like asking. I have to though because I'm poor haha. Nothing wrong with running a tune up to around 18psi just get a good cooler and a good tuner. I can tell you where to go but its a big cost upfront after you have already been dealing with another tuner.

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  • Member For: 5y 9m 24d

Sorry to hear man. It sounds like you've been hosed.

 

Seems a common issue with these big high profile tuners. Most don't want to know you if you're new to them, and most don't care about even $20k worth of work on an old falcon when they routinely have people dropping $100k+ on builds with more expensive platforms. 

 

Hope you can sort it quickly and painlessly

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 5y 4m 15d

I ended up speaking with cms to let him know what happened and have taken steps to move forward.

I did some calculations and spoke to several shops and jet gave me a good lead on an engine shop too.

I also did some calculations on a diy job too including buying parts, machining etc and it almost turns out the same price.

Unfortunately the budget at this time doesn't allow for any of the above unless I spread the cost out over 6+ months.

I decided I will go with a gas motor and run it on e85. So far I have found a motor and started to pick up all the necessary things I need to make the change over happen. I have a balancer tool, front and rear crank seals, water pump seal, inlet manifold gasket. Still have to track down a sump gasket and half tempted to fit a new cam chain tensioner.

At this stage I am planning to not pull the head off or get the pistons out but probably have a look at some of the engine bearings and try get an idea of the kind of life the engine has had.

With access to a hoist, compressor, engine stand and crane I am hoping to turn this around over the Christmas period. I'm waiting on pump gears, valve springs and spring tool to turn up, if they don't then my plan is all but over. This is a budget operation and consequences have been accepted.

125,000km on the gas motor from my local wrecker $550 delivered, balancer tool $240, pump gear and backing plate $360, valve springs and tool $310, e85 petrol filter $120, gaskets seals fluids $300+?

If anyone has some handy hints for something that might trip me up during the swap please chime in. d1a93742f3da16983152be00963f4a86.jpg

  • less WHY; more WOT
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good to see you're on the road to recovery :spoton:

 

@JETURBO and @Puffwagonshould be able to give you a few pointers on what'll be necessary for a quality gas engine build.

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