Which Xr6T To Buy? (Merged Topic)

[GSR]

Looking to buy soon, this thread has a lot of great info thanks.

[GSR]

It all depends on your price range? I'm in the market for a FG XR6T at the moment and I'd say 60,000 km would be my limit.

[boost69]

If you can still get an FG with under 100,000KM, and still within the warranty period, for a good price, then you can extend the manufacturers warranty for another 100,000KMS and 3 years.

Cost of this would be around the $1,900 mark, but if you got a good price on your FG due the higher KMS then it might work out OK.

It will also give you peace of mind that if anything major does go, like the tranny or turbo...or diff bushes (these will go for sure), its covered.(all it takes is a couple of claims and the extended warranty has more than paid itself off)

If your thinking about leaving the car stock standard this might be an option for you.

In stock form the FG feels allot faster and refined than a BA/BF...(this is based on my experience of the two cars)

[SamBoRG]

Hi guys,

I'm new here and signed up as I'm looking at buying an XR6T very soon hopefully. I currently drive a 1990 Nissan silvia (2.0L turbo) and it's been a great car for the 8 or so years I've owned it. Fun car, quick, corners well, good on fuel and pretty reliable etc etc. However, I have a family including a 4 year old son. Getting my boy in and out of the car is getting harder and harder. And so here I am looking at XR6Ts as I feel that no other car will meet my requirements of being spacious, fun and not cost an arm and a leg to buy/maintain/insure. I know my fuel costs will go up a bit though, but I'm ok with that.

Depending on what I get when I sell my Silvia (which will probably be bugger all unfortunately) I'll have a budget of around $12-14k.

My requirments are that it has to be auto (my wife needs to be able to drive it and she can't drive manual, plus I'm kind of over working a clutch now), no more than 170,000 kms on the clock, prefer no mods, plus no accident history etc etc. Wife says I'm not allowed yellow or acid colours :(

So anyway, I've done a fair bit of research and want to try to get a BF. I'm not overly fussed about KMs if it's been regularly serviced, but I still don't really want to go over the 170,000 mark. I want this car to last me at least 6 years.

My problem is that I've never actually driven one. My workmate has a BF mark 1 and I've rode in it and it's really nice. However I think he scored a real bargain with his and is of a considerably higher quality (for the price he paid) than those I've looked up on carsales. I know very little about cars so I wouldn't know what is out of place unless it's pointed out to me. I think he paid around $16k for it (a bit over a year ago) and it's fully optioned and only had around 100,000km on it, plus it's in excellent condition from what I can tell.

Am I correct in that the things to check are as follows:

Worn Bushes

rattles from the diff when travelling at around 80km/h or so

changed injectors? Not sure how I'd be able to check that without opening up the engine cover though

Are there any signs to look out for in terms of a worn gear box?

Anything else I should be mindful of? I don't plan to mod it at all, but if I did I wouldn't be doing much to it as I don't plan on taking it to the track ever.

I also heard somewhere that I'm better off looking for a good BA Mk2 rather than a (possibly) lower quality BF Mk1. What do you guys think? Should I not rule out BAs? I really don't intend on driving hard. It needs to be reliable as I drive to work every day but I'm not looking to have massive amounts of power. Also if anyone knows anyone in Sydney looking to buy a Silvia let me know ;-)

[_Velocity_]

The injectors are slightly visible under the fule rail if you pop the bonnet. Should be blue and you may even be able to see the fine print on them too.

Understand that apart from the auto there is not much difference between a BA mkII and a BF mkI. Same bottom end (which is the weakness in these earlier models when it comes to tuning) so apart from the different automatic transmissions (ZF 6 speed vs BTR 4 speed), most of the engine and driveline differences are negligible.

[spinr33]

SamBorg if you extend the budget to around 15k you can get a really nice 08-09 FG xr6 non turbo with around 100k kms if you want something reliable and a lot newer then a bf compared to a 2 litre Silvia will feel fast anyway

[SamBoRG]

Don't really want a non-turbo, as tempting as it is to get a newer model.

What I guess what I need to understand is, if it's completely stock and not intended to be track driven or thrashed, is the BA auto box going to be ok (assuming it hasn't had a rough history)? My hooning days are over, not that I was ever really a hoon. I just want something comfortable that has the power when I feel like putting my foot down. My budget is pretty tight too.

[spinr33]

You buy an old car you get all the problems associated with them you have a budget it really depends on what you are prepared to compromise on if it was the choice between a BF ad FG, a BA 03 is 10 years old a BF 06 is 7 years old a FG 09 is 4 years old id personally compromise on the turbo a non turbo xr6 runs forever the same carnt be said for turbos and associated running costs, turbo failures and engine failures arent uncommon especially on the BA series now and isnt uncommon on BF's.

Get a NA xr6 with a towbar and strip the silvia out and make it into a track car that way you have a reliable everyday car and also a track car best of both worlds

[djqc]

http://carsales.mobi/cars/details/?R=14098726

Mates looking at getting this. Is it a good price, and does it have the good rods?

[BigAl's04]

Really low K's for an 8yr old car. I'd say price is about average. BF1= weak rods and valve springs.

Cheers.