ZF external cooler install and transmission service - How to

[Wyatt]

Having plenty of free time atm, finally gunna have a crack at ZF fluid flush and upgrade trans cooler. Just wanted to run some ideas past our learned colleagues.

So decided on this cooler, which seems a great product and price. Car is FG XR6T ute 375kw

To mount over here. Front using 2 small holes in rail (can see 1 @ right) via Ali plate and prolly couple of self tappers at rear near fuel lines. Haven't found anyone with nutsert gun. Will use a third support strap from above or maybe using old cooler bolts, not sure how much gearbox could move around.

 

Was going to try remove old plastic hose and reuse existing ZF outlet fittings which look to be barbed and 1/2" ID hose should fit ok. Other end going into cooler will be -10AN ORB to 1/2" barb. Could replace with new ZF and 8AN to barb fittings, but why? there's about 25mm for clamping, these should work right?

Have 20lt of GW SYN TS already and awaiting new ZF filter and metal/rubber pan gasket.

 

The next bit is where I wanted to try something different (not a new idea) with flushing trans using drill pump. Was thinking to drop pan first (after loosening filler plug) change filter and gasket (6L max?), then fit new short 1/2" lines and refill trans with same amount collected. Then connect 1500lph drill pump using clear lines to cooler lines to see what is going on and get someone to start car and run through gears with foot on brake for about 20-30 seconds as I try and match the inlet flow of new fluid to match the outlet stream using marked buckets for another 10L, leaving a some fluid for any top up required. I'm assuming hot fluid comes out of converter, clutches etc directly to outlet to cooler. Is this correct? Can someone advise fluid movement. Is there gunna be enough time to do all this?

 

So the logic is that pan gets removed once only, more old LG6 gets replaced and process should be quicker, although hopefully not too hectic. Thoughts?

 

Questions are: Not real sure about fluid flow rate from ZF pump at idle, I know you need lines firmly secured to help stop nasty sh*t flying everywhere. Could this process do major damage apart from running gearbox extremely low or dry which should be avoided by immediate shutdown. The other option is to get replacement pan with drain and do as many changes as possible in 20lt

 

What could go wrong?  All comments welcome

Edited 24/04/20 02:59 AM by Wyatt
Grammar

[Bulletime]

That sounds kinda hectic, im doing my wifes territory soon and was planning on putting the new pan (with bottom drail hole) but refitting the old filter. Then flushing enough of the 20L till it comes out clean and or I only have enough to do a final refil. Having a bottom drain bolt will make it cleaner and easier then the final fill ill put new filter in and fill her up as per zf fill procedure.

Im also putting an oil to air cooler on (did this already on my xr6 turbo) and just got the proper fittings cuz that's what everyone does and I dont wanna make things harder for myself (sounds like u dont mind a challenge). Hopefully a real mechanic chimes in to give u some wisdom but being my second zf to play with I dont think id be doing anything dodgy. Theyre too expensive.

Also good job going derale, ive got one on my trans and engine, quality product!

[El Andrew]

Yeah I reckon the pan with the drain is the safe way to go and less chance of stuffing it up.

I can't quite remember, but I don't think the old fittings were particularly re-usable. I got the wrong fittings initially (supplier put 6R fittings in a bag labelled 6HP26) so I tried to use the old fittings to keep me moving. I think the hard plastic lines look like they've been heat shrink on and it wasn't possible to fit hose like a normal barb fitting once the old lines were cut off.

[Wyatt]

Thanks for the comments fellas. Will procrastinate a little longer as time is not an issue atm.  $110 will cover extra fittings if plan A doesn't work out. May even consider fabbing a scoop to help force air through and support cooler at same time.

[arronm]

On 24/04/2020 at 12:57 PM, Wyatt said:

So decided on this cooler, which seems a great product and price. Car is FG XR6T ute 375kw

To mount over here. Front using 2 small holes in rail (can see 1 @ right) via Ali plate and prolly couple of self tappers at rear near fuel lines. Haven't found anyone with nutsert gun. Will use a third support strap from above or maybe using old cooler bolts, not sure how much gearbox could move around.

That cooler may not have enough surface area even at that thickness. 

 

You can mount coolers at these locations. They can also be squeezed in the front.

 

 

[Wyatt]

Might just delete the drill pump ZF flush brain fart and follow proper procedure to get a proper outcome. Will drop it 3 times to clear most of the old LG6 out, I should get good at it by the time I'm done. Spare time is not an issue atm.

The cooler is rated at 20000 btu/h, about 50% more than the popular PWR cooler, not that it will get as much air flow as upfront, but will remove the dreaded milkshake threat, which is the main aim and and definitely more efficient than the stock brick. Doesn't get cold in FNQ so heating aspect should be no issue. Flash surge tank @arronm if that's what it is.

[Wyatt]

As we all like a follow up....

 

Milkshake maker delete complete. Learned a bit about bending hose in tight spaces and that I have nfi when it comes to non basic car mods. Some people are around to make the rest look good sometimes. My shout on this occasion. She's a bit dodge all round. Wore a bit of trans fluid and coolant but Anyhoo, job done and hasn't leaked a drop as yet (after 3 drives). We'll see.

So 3 turn GW syn ts flush which used about 19 litres of 20, in fact doing last top up, a minor freak out and had to tilt drum on side to get close to the last out of it. Fortunately just made the desired thin stream at 35C according to torque app. Maths says 90%+ new fluid now, magnets were pretty clean and cutting open old filter revealed pleasingly little signs of abuse at 90K klms. Shifts nicely.

Just for a few giggles, a few images. Have since added a thin layer of rubber between the tightish zf outlet fittings.

If I could do again, I'd prolly go the install in front of driver side tyre as per the learned on here. 

 

So now have oil pump gears, milkshake delete and have a 82C thermostat in the mail as discovered current is factory 92C model and clearly a tune tweak to the thermo fan settings coming up.

Great cars, love the whole deal.

 

Not letting post other images, will try again later

 

Following on

Edit: At least the chocking was good

Edited 29/05/20 08:21 AM by Wyatt
Not letting post other images

[k31th]

good stuff, @Wyatt. very backyard dodgy style, but looks like you got the  job done and as far as I'm concerned that's all that matters, especially with backyarding

 

oh, and if you want to post images, instructions are here -> https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/92470-how-to-put-images-in-your-post/

[Wyatt]

Thanks K31fer, can you add this as well.

Just noticed this is a "How to" thread, clearly wrong place then. I should read the instructions.

[k31th]

it's all relevant to the thread useful information for those who don't have all of the correct equipment.