High Powered Headlight Globes

[SR-71 Blackbird]

  profrat said:

Hi SR71 Blackbird,

Can you elaborate on what you refer to as "UV cut". As I read it I assume you mean that this "UV Cut" helps to prevent lens meltdown with high powered globes. Is this correct?

Ahhhh.... it would be good if someone would actually publish a comparitive test on light globes done in a scientific manner with quantitative measures and controls. I would love to see that. Then we may get some insight into whether these '30% more light' claims have any validity. Having said that I am still sure some brands would be better than others.

To see the difference between a more effecient light for the same wattage as a less effecient light, one only has to compare a 5 3/4" GE 100w aircraft landing light sealed beam with a similar Japanese 100w light made for automotive use. The differnce is night and day (pun intended). The AL light runs MUCH hotter and whiter, BUT it lasts MUCH less time. In aero use thay are only rated for 25 hours of use and then must be replaced. The Auto lights are rated for hundreds of hours. In my (ancient history) rallying days I could not afford Cibie Super Oscars so I used AL Lights. They were really good but I had to replace tham a LOT. (cheap at the airport because they would sell me the 'out of hours' ones for a few dollars and some of them had a lot less than 25 hours on them). When I could finally afford Oscars, I found them an improvement. The globes lasted a LOT longer, but the light out put was not THAT much better. They gave more options though. Spots, Driving or Fogs.

It is always a good idea to upgrade the connectors, wiring and relays when fitting higher watt globes. Also a good idea to make sure you have a good margin of excess amperage to prevent voltage drop. I am currently running 600watts on high beam with a 70 amp alternator and I recon this is on the limit even though the lights only draw around 46 amps.

I would still like to hear from anyone who has actually tried 90/100 globes in a BA Falcon.

Cheers, Profrat

UV cut prevents the poloycarbonate lens from becoming brittle, cracking and falling apart as UV light normally has a detremental effect on plastics. I don't believe UV cut bulbs will save your headlight reflector and lens if larger bulbs are fitted.

[profrat]

I was browsing through some old bookmarks and I came across one I thought I had lost. Some time ago in this thred I mentioned that I had read on the internet somewhere about the disadvantages of blue tinted globes and a dissertation on the advantages of 'yellower' coloured light rather than 'whiter' or especially 'bluer' light. which seemed to coincide with some of my own observations.

I have found the link again. If you are considering buying 'Blue' globes it is well worth a read.

My own conclusions are that Higher wattage globes are best if you can use them in your headlights (XR6T???????). Otherwise those types mentioned below seem to be the go.........

Here is a quoted excerpt that is highly relevant:

>>For those who want the best possible performance from their headlamps and are more concerned with their ability to see rather than the appearance of their headlamps, the major bulb companies offer optimized bulbs WITHOUT the light-stealing blue coloration. Sylvania Xtravision (in the pink-and-black package), Osram Super and SilverStar(outside North America only!); Philips High Visibility (North America), Premium and Vision Plus (outside North America); Narva RangePower are the ones to look for.<<

(Daniel Stern)

Read all about it at:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

And especially:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html

and:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html

Disclaimer: Some of this stuff is specific to the inferior USA leagal headlights, but much of the basic stuff is really

Profrat

[profrat]

Foggies!

For all of those people arguing about whether or not to use the FOG lights on the 'T' or when to use them, this says most of it:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/li.../fog_lamps.html

[dingah2]

Agree with BlownBA I did a lot of research and best bang for the buck are the Phillips Blue Vision, between 30 and 60 dollars depending hwere you buy them. THere are different grades of 'blue' and beare as the more intense blue are clearly marked as for off-road use only are they are illegal. The legal 'blue' Phillpis though are great, UV cut etc. If you deide on a different brand then PM me as I have a number of Xenon 'test' articles which are not fitted at a cheap price.

Also tried higher wattage narva(?) and one exploded writing off the entire headlamp assembly. Steer clear and expensive experiment.

[ZAP]

I have the Osram +50's in my low and high beam and they are unreal. Best $75 I could have spent. They are Xenon/Halogen globes. I am gonna upgrade my wifes Kluger as I notice how bad headlights are now without these globes. It is very noticable on wet roads and seeing the lane markings. With stock lights it was hard to see, but with the Osrams, you can see everything.

I am now also considering getting the foglight globes upgraded.

[profrat]

dingah, What caused the globe to explode?

I have been using high poewered globes for years and this is new to me. What wattage was it?

[Falchoon]

  profrat said:

Foggies!

For all of those people arguing about whether or not to use the FOG lights on the 'T' or when to use them, this says most of it:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/li.../fog_lamps.html

Oh yeh, read up peoples, particularily SS/HSV Late model camira drivers.

  Quote

In most driving situations, fog lamps are neither useful nor necessary, but more people use their fog lamps when the prevailing conditions don't call for their use, than use them when the conditions do call for their use. Nobody thinks your car is cool because it has fog lamps, and glare is dangerous, so do yourself and everyone a favor: choose them carefully, aim them properly, use them thoughtfully, and leave them off except when they're genuinely necessary.

[ZAP]

I would not use anything above the 55w/60w in the T as it has plastic lenses and they WILL melt if you put the 90w/110w globes in. Also the wiring, relays, fuses and even the light switch can be damaged as you are drawing twice the power through the stock wiring. If you have an older car with glass headlights and you run upgraded wiring, etc. you should be ok.

My brother had an underbonnet fire in his WRX because he ran the 90w/110w globes. It cost him new headlight wiring and a new headlight as it just melted and smoked all over the place.

[YOOT]

I ran 110watt hibeams in my ED Fairmont for 2 years and never had a problem other than upgrading the relay to a 40Amp circuit. I never got yellowed lenses, never had hot wires and could see through walls with all the lights on.

Fortunately the BA lenses are excellent and are almost as bright on hi-beam so I don't feel the need to change them too 100watt.

As for low beam, its not really there to light the road up because if you can't use hibeam its because your in a well it area and you can see, der, or there is another car nearby, in which case you can see them, der. As long as the lights are adjusted proerly and reflect off street signs and cats eyes and guide posts you'll be allright.

For every other time you use your hi beams, pretty simple huh?

[profrat]

OK, that's great info if I had a WRX. Sorry, but I am one of those annoying, cynical, stubborn people who just HAVE to have something PROOVED to them....or find out the hard way for myself. Has anyone actually SEEN what happens to a BA headlight with a 90-100 watt globe in it?

Did the ED have glass or polycarbonate lenses? If plastic, it is a useful clue.....

Wiring is another issue and would still need to be looked at, but pure speculation does not cut it for me....sorry. I will have to get my AutoLec to asses the wiring for me.

Oh well. Looks like I will have to try to get a damaged headlight unit cheap from a wrecker to do a little experiment for myself..................

Professor Ratbaggy