BA Fairlane Turbo!

[Typhoon]

Pivot bolt broken equals loss of chain tension and the piston hits the open valve.

 

It has failed right where the valve recess is on the top of the piston.

 

If its run lean the spark plug would have melted before the piston so have a look at that.

 

Looks like a timing gear failure to me. 

[skotty]

Yeh ive been told that (think a mate was discussing it with you actually). Spark plugs fine aside from being covered in oil, and yeh it also is missing a b small bit from the edge of the exhaust valve.

[Typhoon]

Makes sense

 

Injectors are actually very reliable.

 

Also we tend to always think they fail close when the could just as easily fail open.

[skotty]

This engine has had a oiling issue for a long time where it would drink oil, the whole "ok" part of the dipstick driving to The bend, a night of roll racing and then having to top it up before leaving to head home! so ~380km.. if I kept it off boost it was better but still horrible.. I had been told it could of possible had a crack ring land for a while, but honestly I dont know this is wayyyy out of my scope of knowledge! I still havent figured a plan of attack for it yet

[skotty]

Ok, so I need to try and figure out a plan for this engine and be realistic at the same time so I'm having a tough choice here.. The old setup was plazmaman spec 1 valve springs, XR6T Development oil pump gears, BF2 XR6T pistons, spool conrods (had a freshen up by a southern tuner when I bent and rod years ago and he recommended a rebuild with spool rods over a used XR6T motor)... I do have a couple of spare BF XR6T pistons here, and a complete BF NA motor here so I *could* rebuild that the same build this motor was - but along with atomic timing chain pivot bolt, crank sprocket, and pivot arm with genuine ford chain and tensioner and get a retune, or save up for 12 months and send it into the tuners for a full build.. The catch with a full build I am unsure if its worth it as to be fair I was happy with the car where it was power wise - and just maxxing out the current turbo which is a garrett gen1 GTX3582 I'm happy with, as that still keeps the rest of the driveline together, building that keeps the car going.. Then on the side build a motor with decent rods/pistons... Doing pistons aswell I guess means the tuner may lean into a bit harder on 98?

[JETURBO]

Who’s the tuner…. Might pay to ask him what he thinks yehhhh ? 

[skotty]

Well talking to a couple of your customers I was going to have a chat to you - keeping it a SA tuner when a drag strip is being built here and roll racing is here seems like a great idea! Just don't want to waste ya time

[JETURBO]

Look I get it and understand what you’re hopefully trying to achieve and for anyone watching on here it’s simple 

 

Get a complete wrecker long engine complete, FG turbo is the best option but Gassy works …. Drop it in if it’s a FG turbo long and with basic bolt ons it holds 500rwkw for a decent amount of time with just valve springs internally fitted. 
 

The second you start opening up sumps and removing heads it’s basically no way but the right way to complete the task and that’s a full new build. Wether it be a basic build that will hold 500rwkw or a up spec that can hold 6-7-800rwkw it just needs to be done correctly with new hardware otherwise the “issue” rate with not achieving a target is high and who needs that additional BS with when modifying cars to go fast and some reliability in mind… Don’t mind issues and excess stuffing around in your life then go for a Frankenstein build and see how much you can save… my guess is $0 unless you don’t rate your time as a valve  

 

What I will say is when it comes to tow trucks and missed paid events plus others time it stacks up big time so the expensive way is typically the cheapest way when it comes to reliability. Plus who needs all that noise in their life 

[Puffwagon]

Long story short, buy a Honda 

[skotty]

Got a quote back from Chris Miltons for doing my engine, looks like I'll be getting a FG mk1 block and sending in there to get built early in the year. Should be good to have a proper built motor. 
 

For me the egasser route isn't worth it as it'd be better off being a dedicated e85 car then and I do alot of highway miles so that rules out that for me, and a used FG turbo motor I can't justify their price for a motor that's 12 years old, tuned by who knows how many people and belted into for the last decade. Rather spend the extra on a fresh motor. 

 

I did put the car back to NA and think I'd possibly enjoy it, whilst it's nice to be driving it again it is also boring as! 

Edited 12/11/22 11:38 PM by skotty