Newly Purchased 2003 BA XR6T Manual

[Foleyskids]

Recently swapped my VZ + cash for a 2003 5 speed Manual BA XR6T 

Body and paint are clean. However mechanically not so great. 

Thrust Bearing whines and he suspects the gearbox needs replacing. It was a tad noisy, but drove ok. It also came with a new gearbox. How much labour am I looking at to replace the gearbox? The clutch pedal felt spongeyish as if there was air in the system or something, but seemed to shift gears fine. 
As I got home I noticed there was no pressure in the coolant system (tested top rad hose) and she was bubbling and gurgling. Hoping it's just the top rad cap.. 
Checked the oil for any milkyness and it was clean so head gasket should be ok. 
Now I haven't driven one of these, but she came on boost strong and pulled hard till about 3500rpm, then it seemed to drop and be a steady curve all the way through the rev range. 
Just felt too slow for me I thought she'd have a bit more beans than that. Could be a blown turbo possibly? 
Also, on idle she's a bit shakey (motor) old engine mounts maybe?
And the revs go up and down very very marginally on idle like 50rpm tops. 

I have driven the car to my nans place and that was it. I'm going to have a good look over her tomorrow and give you guys some feedback but this is all I've got so far.. 
I will record a video tomorrow of me driving the car I'll do a few pulls see what you guys think. 

Cheers. 

/

Edited 08/07/18 02:02 PM by Foleyskids

[k31th]

probably about 4-600ish for the labour to pull the gearbox out etc and replace all of the seals etc that need replacing while it's out. Of course that varies fairly wildly depending on the labour rate and skill level of the shop you choose to take it to.

 

The bubbling is a standard feature of the XR6T. It's called thermo-siphon and it bubbles coolant through the turbo as it's idling down after switch off so you don't need to idle the car or run a turbo timer.

 

If it's stock, that's what they do, they come onto the 5-6psi of boost quite quickly and then they hold that boost to the redline which makes the torque peak nice and early in the boost range then hold steady to the redline, too, which makes it "feel" slow in the mid-range to top-range, but you'll find the speedo is still climbing quite fast

 

Yep, if the car rattles around, it's likely the engine mounts are shot. The driver side one goes first, so check it, but change both if it's gone.

 

50rpm dips etc when slowing down or under no load is not too unusual for these cars. Can be smoothed out with a tune and potentially the intake tract can be cleaned to be sure everything is running as smoothly as possible.

 

Looks like a nice purchase

[Foleyskids]

Thanks for the fast reply mate! Went up and went over her again today. 

First of all, I'd just like to confirm that it's not a typhoon motor? Bloke I bought it off was a compulsive liar so when he told me it was a typhoon motor I was pretty sure it wasn't. Here's a photo.

I didn't know where to look for engine number but also found this. The dipstick doesn't seal properly and its a different number to whats on the front of the engine there.




Also still no pressure in top rad hose when cars running is this normal? and I checked rad cap seems to be sealing fine. 

Basically the car has power up until about 3200rpm. Then it drops off from 200kw atw to about 100kw atw. and its a gradual decline around 3200-3500rpm mark. Car is boosting fine and holding boost (or so it seems, the boost gauge is faulty but it stays steady when WOT) 

I put 7L of 98 in the car, the car still said 0km range left. Would this possibly put the car in limp mode? There are no check engine lights just fuel light and 0km range. 

She's pretty clean aside from these issues at least. But yeah its definitely not making the power it should, and I can't get my head around whats stopping it... 







I want to send a video of a few pulls I did in the car but I can't work out how. I will upload them to youtube maybe? 

Any help is appreciated!

Edited 09/07/18 10:26 AM by k31th
fixed pics

[El Andrew]

Have you got an OBDII scan tool? Worth scanning for codes to see if there's anything obvious.

[k31th]

The number on the front of the timing case is not the engine number. The engine number is stamped onto the engine block below the exhaust manifold close to the firewall/bell-housing area. The fact that the engine has a blue rocker cover, means it's possible it's a typhoon engine, but you can't know for sure without checking a valid engine number or pulling it apart to be sure.

 

Is the dipstick not sealing because the plastic is cracked or broken etc?
Get a new one from Ford or a wrecker, if necessary.

 

Looks like the coolant is just too low, hence the fact the top hose has no pressure when it's running, too. If the temperature gauge doesn't change too much, it'll be fine as it is until you top up or flush the coolant system.

 

It might just "feel" like a drop to 100kW, as I described above. The "rate of change of acceleration" (called "jerk") is what you feel the most, in the seat of the pants department, so you won't be able to accurately tell how much power it's making until you take it to a dyno to see for sure.

 

Sometimes the fuel sender rig doesn't detect a small amount of fuel you put in with regard to the fuel calculations, so don't worry about that, just make sure you put 10-20L in, minimum, for it to show up.

 

Yep, upload to YouTube, copy the "share" link to the text box here, paste it and then press "enter" on your keyboard and it should embed itself so we can just click on it to play it.

[Foleyskids]

@El Andrew It's not throwing any codes mate, but nah I don't have a scanner tool 

 

@k31th
Yeah I figured as much. The Typhoon motor from a google images search comes up with "FPV" logo where as mine has Ford written on there. But yeah best to check the engine number when I get the chance. 

It's missing a rubber seal I think. No biggie. 

Yeah topped her up today, once she's rego'd I'll see if she loses fluid/overheats but it doesn't seem to do so. 

Nah mate it's 100% not running properly. I did multiple pulls and It just isn't making the power it should beyond 3200-3500. Uphills it literally has ~100kw. I will upload the video in a moment to show you. Ideally I need to take it in somewhere to get looked at, I'm located in SA not too sure where to take it yet. 

Yeah I understand that. I drove 15mins and it was on 0km and fuel gauge on empty. Put 7L in from a jerry (currently unreg) It should've budged by now. faulty gauge/sender whatever not too fussed I just want the old girl running the way she should! 

Video coming.

 

 

I mean I'm pretty sure I just need to take it somewhere. It seems to be an issue that needs to be seen to be diagnosed. The issue could be anywhere. She is still holding boost as it pulls through the rev range. 

 

Here's a neutral rev. Doesn't seem like its as responsive as she should be. :(

[El Andrew]

It's not throwing any codes mate, but nah I don't have a scanner tool

How do you know it's not throwing codes of you don't have a scanner? Not all codes trigger a check engine light.

 

Nothing looks two strange I'm those videos. Bit hard to tell though without the bum dyno.

[k31th]

30 minutes ago, Foleyskids said:

Videos...

Seems like a standard BA XR6T to me. PM @JETURBO and take it to him to diagnose, as he's fairly experienced with these cars.

[Foleyskids]

Let me find an uphill video.

[arronm]

Does it have an oil cooler above the oil filter ?? 

Edited 09/07/18 01:03 PM by arronm