Possible overboost problem (BA)?

[Cormo]

OK, sorry for the late response but have had home PC issues.

 

Obviously the heat shield on the engine mount needs to be removed to gain access to the bracket bolt/nut.

Oil & water cooling lines to be removed at turbo. Have a new gasket set for the dump pipe, turbo to manifold flange, oil & water cooling lines. 

I've got a new set of studs & nuts for the dump pipe to turbo. Just got to get the other two rounded off nuts out.

I see some HT manifold to turbo flange studs & nuts (12 sided?) for sale on eBay. Would it be worth getting a set you think?

Also got a new exhaust manifold gasket.

 

Apologies for all the questions. I'm a turbo virgin & I like to picture what I am up against & what issues I may encounter before giving it a crack.  I really appreciate any feedback.

 

Cheers

[Puffwagon]

I've never removed the bracket to take off the turbo or manifold.

 

Keith was saying he's done it like that so maybe he can give you some pointers if you want to do it that way. 

 

I'd only replace stuff that is worn or broken but if you want to replace the fasteners that's up to you. Maybe yours are showing signs of wear?

 

Undo the turbo oil drain from the block and leave it attached to the turbo. Try not to bend it too much and replace the gasket when you put it back together. Don't strip the sump threads, they're fairly delicate. 

 

Be careful not to strip the head when you're putting it back together but if you are using studs this won't be an issue. A torque wrench is a handy tool to own. 

 

Don't forget the copper washers for the banjo fittings. Two per fitting.

 

While you're at it you may as well check your turbo oil filter. There's instructions on here somewhere.

 

That's all I can think of right now for tips. I'm sure other members can add to this though.

 

Lol don't forget the circlip when you put it back together 

[Cormo]

Some good pointers there thanks Puffwagon.  I tend to use a torque wrench when tightening exhaust manifold bolts.  I've installed an earl's inline oil filter but will check this also.  Thanks for the tip on the circlip - lol.

 

So at the end of the day it is possible to remove the turbo & manifold while leaving the bracket in place, by removing the bottom two studs (turbo to manifold flange).  I assume it is better to disconnect the water return line at the turbo to get better access to the studs.  You mentioned disconnecting the oil return pipe at the block.  Leaving it connected to the turbo doesn't hinder access to the studs?

[Puffwagon]

8 hours ago, Cormo said:

So at the end of the day it is possible to remove the turbo & manifold while leaving the bracket in place, by removing the bottom two studs (turbo to manifold flange).

 

I've done it that way half a dozen times or more.

 

8 hours ago, Cormo said:

I assume it is better to disconnect the water return line at the turbo to get better access to the studs.

 

I always undo the banjo fittings from the turbo as it is the easiest method.

 

9 hours ago, Cormo said:

You mentioned disconnecting the oil return pipe at the block.  Leaving it connected to the turbo doesn't hinder access to the studs?

 

Not at all. You don't need to remove the oil return from the turbo.

 

9 hours ago, Cormo said:

I've installed an earl's inline oil filter

 

Your block filter should have been removed when this was installed.

[Cormo]

Well had a go at this over the Christmas  / New year break.  Managed to change out the faulty wastegate actuator thanks to all the advice, much appreciated.  A bit involved, not difficult but doable if you take your time.  I found a good set of wobbly socket extensions was invaluable.  Should only take half the time next time, BUT hopefully I won't need to do it again for quite a while.

 

Once again, thanks for all the advice - great forum.

 

Cheers