Possible overboost problem (BA)?

[BAXRTUTE]

Next time u go for a drive, get it to do what its doing... "limp mode" loss of power and shuddering along? Back off then drop down a gear and push to half throttle for a second or two and see if it comes back to life.

If it does? I'll say that its a waste gate issue.

Edited 02/12/17 11:06 PM by BAXRTUTE

[Box stock T.]

At least changing a wastegate actuator is an easy job. Especially when the turbo and manifold are still in factory position.

[Cormo]

Yeah I presume it's just a matter of disconnecting the cat & dropping the dump pipe.  Hopefully the nuts & studs are easy enough to remove.  This will give better access to attach the end of the wastegate actuator shaft & clip.  Replace with new dump pipe studs, nuts & gasket etc. etc.

 

I tried blowing into a good wastegate actuator & was impossible.  So it appears mine is stuffed after all, as there is no resistance when blowing into mine.

 

Thanks for all the feedback & suggestions, . . . much appreciated.

[Box stock T.]

Hate to say it buddy it was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment.

It's a bugger of a job to get the circlip off and back on with new actuator.

 

Turbo only or manifold and turbo together is a hell of a lot easier.

Go genuine garret exact replacement of your actuator that way the pre-load can be set identical by putting them on a bench next to each other and setting it correctly. Because it matters.

 

Read a few post on this forum there's a few on here withall info you will need.

 

Start searching buddy.

A few others might chime in with more suggestions and links to the threads I'm referring to.( I.E. Keith....)

 

P.S. I started mine and went fook it and let Jet do it when did a 8 psi actuator and injectors for me, I did the easier stuff like the high flow cat and fuel pump installs.

[Puffwagon]

10 minutes ago, Box stock T. said:

Hate to say it buddy it was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment.

It's a bugger of a job to get the circlip off and back on with new actuator.

 

One time it took me 30 seconds to get my clip on. 

 

Then I discovered it wasn't on and the next attempt took about 30 times longer.

 

It doesn't take that long to remove the manifold and lower 2 turbo fasteners to take it off in one unit.

 

It's not really much fun but when is fixing cars?

[Cormo]

Sounds great! . . . always up for a challenge.  Might think about whether to do it myself or not now.  But sounds like if I try I will be looking for that swear jar.

 

Not sure about the preload.  There doesn't appear to be any adjustment on the standard replacement wastegate actuator arm (same part no. as that on vehicle).  Just a solid arm with an eye at the end, unlike that on say a Turbosmart actuator which has a threaded sleeve on the arm for adjustment.

[Box stock T.]

Yep that's why ya go a genuine replacement. No real problem with getting the preload wrong.

[Cormo]

On ‎3‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 8:39 PM, Puffwagon said:

One time it took me 30 seconds to get my clip on. 

 

Then I discovered it wasn't on and the next attempt took about 30 times longer.

 

It doesn't take that long to remove the manifold and lower 2 turbo fasteners to take it off in one unit.

 

It's not really much fun but when is fixing cars?

Puffwagon, I took a look on the weekend.  The dump pipe had been removed previously & the old nuts reused.  Needless to say they were pretty ordinary & as such I proceeded to round off two of the five (not happy) - job for another day.  I took the opportunity to check out what needed doing to remove the manifold & turbo as a unit like you suggested.  There appears to be a bracket or brace but I could only see two nuts on the front side.  Couldn't see the firewall side nuts.  I suspect they are under the engine mount heat shield.  You mentioned removing the "lower 2 turbo fasteners" to take it off.  Are these ones that attach to this bracket?  Can you please elaborate further or point me to a link on how to remove the manifold & turbo as a unit.  The manifold is pretty straight forward but I'm trying to find out what needs to be done to release the turbo.

 

Also, I have read in places where people don't reinstate the K (H) bracket as they believe it isn't necessary.  Not sure if it is difficult to put back on or it just makes it easier next time to remove the turbo.  Either way, is this a recommended practice?

 

Cheers . . .

[k31th]

The K/H-bracket joins to the lower two manifold-to-turbo stud-nut connections and also to the lower-front engine-mount-to-engine bolt and also to a bolt that goes through the middle of the engine-mount (directly below the turbo - very difficult to get to and painful to remove).

 

I personally never put it back into place, since it's such a painful thing to remove/install. You need to remove all of the heat shielding around the manifold/turbo/dump except the one that covers the intermediate steering arm.

[Puffwagon]

If there are studs in the bottom two holes of the turbo/top of the bracket then you'll need to lock nut them and wind them out. Use plenty of wd40 and be patient, once you've done it once or twice it'll be easy.

 

I have undone the turbo a couple of different ways; I've reached it from under the car with a combination of sockets and universal bits but now I just use a spanner or two from the top.

 

I can see why people would leave the bracket off but I don't have issues with it so I leave it on for support. I don't remove it at all when swapping turbo or manifold.

 

As far is it being a recommended practice to leave it off I'd say no it isn't. I'd be pissed if I took my car to a mechanic and they left bits off cos it was too hard to deal with.

 

Since you mentioned stripped nuts, I'd recommend replacing anything like that as it'll just cause you grief another day.

 

If you get stuck on anything then feel free to ask any questions, we're all here to help each other.