Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>

[stormsearcher]

the recommended oil -15w-40. oil change interval 15,000kms

oil works in its operating range with less changes to oil characteristics like viscosity, detergents etc.

racing applications -imediatly we assume if its good for racing tems it must be good for the average joe.the oil used is of lighter viscosity to enable it to provide immediate protection,lighter means low friction =more horse power. but oil loses its characteristics very quickly. hence very frequent oil changes.

ford didnt spend millions of $$ making cars to save a few bucks because they got a 'cheap deal'on 15w oil wholesale.its because 15w-40 overall works very well for australian climatic conditions.

15w-40 oil has more adherence property than a 5 or 0w oil.this forms a protective film between the internals for longer and prevents mechanical wear and corrosion. one of the byproducts of combustion is watervapor ,but corrosion is a slower process compared to mechanical wear.

bottom line is if you takecare of your car and drive it under load to reach optimum operating temperatures (ever been to motogp and heard mobikes warming up long before the race?),and change oil regularly (which most inmates I assume overdo unless you are drag racing it or regular trackdays/race applications) the car should be good with semisynthetic, synthetic (actually is designed to last longer than semi synthetic which lasts longer in terms of properties than mineral) oil 15-40 or 10-40 if you want to, but going lower even with expensive oils can be detrimental to the engine.

my 2 c.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

you use 15w40 and change at 15000?

[stormsearcher]

NOPE, I change oil say 5-7.5k kms but do u recon a fleet owner is going to bother every 5k kms? he will get rid of the car at 60-70k kms.so thinking profits is what its all about.and fleet probably buys more cars than individuals.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

I will trust Castrol's recommendation over a Ford bean counters any day.

I agree with some of what you say though, a lot of manufacturers are suggesting up to 20,000 service intervals to win customers (fleet/private/lease) who keep the car for the warranty period only.

more and more people are spending hours in peak-hour traffic (which is 'severe driving'). taking 45 minutes to travel only 5km means much more use of the engine oil than 5km would indicate!

moral of the story? full service history doesn't mean sh*t these days.

a friend of mine's dad has a pristine BMW 325Ci. Its 9 years old but looks brand new. It has 100,000kms (well under average use?), FSH. Like I said - its pristine and on the surface you would think its worth the $14k he would take for it. inspect the engine oil cap - SLUDGE SLUDGE SLUDGE.

[FPVF6355]

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd add my 20cents.

I had the car serviced by ford 2000 k's ago, and the oil already looks like it's stuffed, black and very thin.(wattery)

Only reason I checked is the turbo noise changed, so I pulled off the hoses, checked the turbo shaft etc, and took off the oil line to the turbo.

Previous oil was all synthetic, and took 10,000 k's to change to a dull brown, the sh1t Mobil oil ford put is coming out and being replaced with full synthetic castrol again.

Cheap insurance considering the cost to rebuild a Garrett 35/40 turbo is $1000 +

[fpr000]

I use Penrite 0w - 50 in my big girl

Edited 05/11/11 09:14 AM by fpr000

[FGMAN]

im using shell HELIX 10W-40 semi synthetic, do u think think this would be ok on an 2011 fg xr6t, hand book says 10w30....

[Zerosignal]

I ran Castrol Edge 10w60 up until recently and decided id try out the new formula Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 as its the semi synth recommendation from Castrol, the difference noticable between the two? Nothing, except its half the price.

[Bomber]

60 is too thick for general street use.

agree.

[seduced]

Penrite Full Synthetic 10w40. Works for me, never noticed any issues. Change every 7.5k. 85% of driving is just puttering around with the family in the car.