Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>

[Guest dingah]

Dont think so mate as I saw both options at Repco and Autobarn last weekend.

Dingah

[SR-71 Blackbird]

Blackbird,

Would Mobil 1 10-40 (or is it 10-30?) be a trade only oil as well? I can only ever find 5-50 at the shops but I know there are other viscosities around. Why would they not sell the other viscosities to the general public?

Try this Unigroup it should answer somer of you questions.

http://www.mobil.com.au/index.asp

Go to Mobil products and services and then to lubricants and specialties and then to mobil one.

Most suppliers don't keep alot of mobil one because of it's cost. Although it is a great product it is hard to get your average jo to spend money on oil. Most people say oil is oil not so.

[Unigroup]

Thanks for that Blackbird.

In your opinion, what oil would you recommend for a turbo DOHC beasty that is given a regular thrashing?

[rex13bt]

Some of you are brave, very brave. We know under extreme conditions the oil temperature in the T can reach 150°C, at which point the ECU will cut the power output. Why? Because the oil at that temperature becomes very thin and will result in more metal to metal contact, particularly with the bearings. So what oil do I use? A full synthetic 10W/60 oil. I settled on this oil after looking at the High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) viscosity of the oil. This gives an indication of how the oil performs under load at high temperatures. Oil companies can supply this information. Typically a 10W/30 has a HTHS of 3.0cP and a 15W/50 has a HTHS of 4.0cP. The 10W/60 Synthetic I use has a HTHS of 5.4cP. To put it another way the 10W/60 HTHS is 80% better than a 10W/30.

[SR-71 Blackbird]

Some of you are brave, very brave. We know under extreme conditions the oil temperature in the T can reach 150°C, at which point the ECU will cut the power output. Why? Because the oil at that temperature becomes very thin and will result in more metal to metal contact, particularly with the bearings. So what oil do I use? A full synthetic 10W/60 oil. I settled on this oil after looking at the High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) viscosity of the oil. This gives an indication of how the oil performs under load at high temperatures. Oil companies can supply this information. Typically a 10W/30 has a HTHS of 3.0cP and a 15W/50 has a HTHS of 4.0cP. The 10W/60 Synthetic I use has a HTHS of 5.4cP. To put it another way the 10W/60 HTHS is 80% better than a 10W/30.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke05.html

take a look here 0% shear loss

[YOOT]

I bet that stuff is dear.

[dingah2]

Penrite fully synthetic has an extremely wide SAE rating unmatched by others and is about $75 for 5 litres. If you pause a moment and consider what your oil has to suffer and how seminal it is to the life and health of your engine are you really going to skimpo for the sake of a few bucks where the difference in price equates to four NSW schooners...?

Dingah

[rex13bt]

Some of you are brave, very brave.  We know under extreme conditions the oil temperature in the T can reach 150°C, at which point the ECU will cut the power output.  Why? Because the oil at that temperature becomes very thin and will result in more metal to metal contact, particularly with the bearings.  So what oil do I use? A full synthetic 10W/60 oil.  I settled on this oil after looking at the  High Temperature High Shear (HTHS)  viscosity of the oil.  This gives an indication of how the oil performs under load at high temperatures.  Oil companies can supply this information.  Typically a 10W/30 has a HTHS of 3.0cP and a 15W/50 has a HTHS of 4.0cP.  The 10W/60 Synthetic I use has a HTHS of 5.4cP.  To put it another way the 10W/60 HTHS is 80% better than a 10W/30.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke05.html

take a look here 0% shear loss

I looked at the link. There was very little information about the product. No specifications were quoted (ACEA or API), apart from “exceeds all existing standards”.

It does state “Also by carefully selecting the right polymer, “0% shear loss*” can be achieved”.

Most high quantity engine oils, in particular synthetics, use shear stable polymers. I noticed this oil comes in various viscosity grades, while no HTHS is quoted, the thicker variants will have better HTHS results.

This oil is formulated with a ester base oil. Esters have a number of desirable properties, such as having lower internal friction due to its low molecular weight. This will give you more power from your engine. The main disadvantage with esters is its poor Hydrolytic stability ie it reacts with water to from a acid. Every time you start a cold engine you will get condensation in your oil. I hope you are changing your oil often!

Polyalphaolefins (PAO) synthetic oils have better Thermal and Hydrolytic stability and would be a better choice.

[SR-71 Blackbird]

Some of you are brave, very brave.  We know under extreme conditions the oil temperature in the T can reach 150°C, at which point the ECU will cut the power output.  Why? Because the oil at that temperature becomes very thin and will result in more metal to metal contact, particularly with the bearings.  So what oil do I use? A full synthetic 10W/60 oil.  I settled on this oil after looking at the  High Temperature High Shear (HTHS)  viscosity of the oil.  This gives an indication of how the oil performs under load at high temperatures.  Oil companies can supply this information.  Typically a 10W/30 has a HTHS of 3.0cP and a 15W/50 has a HTHS of 4.0cP.  The 10W/60 Synthetic I use has a HTHS of 5.4cP.  To put it another way the 10W/60 HTHS is 80% better than a 10W/30.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke05.html

take a look here 0% shear loss

I looked at the link. There was very little information about the product. No specifications were quoted (ACEA or API), apart from “exceeds all existing standards”.

It does state “Also by carefully selecting the right polymer, “0% shear loss*” can be achieved”.

Most high quantity engine oils, in particular synthetics, use shear stable polymers. I noticed this oil comes in various viscosity grades, while no HTHS is quoted, the thicker variants will have better HTHS results.

This oil is formulated with a ester base oil. Esters have a number of desirable properties, such as having lower internal friction due to its low molecular weight. This will give you more power from your engine. The main disadvantage with esters is its poor Hydrolytic stability ie it reacts with water to from a acid. Every time you start a cold engine you will get condensation in your oil. I hope you are changing your oil often!

Polyalphaolefins (PAO) synthetic oils have better Thermal and Hydrolytic stability and would be a better choice.

Polyalphaolefins (PAOs)

They do exhibit excellent low-temperature properties, but don't they tend to shrink rubber seal material. Low temperature stabilitiy below 40 degrees isn't an issuse in most of australia.

It is also a double ester base with part complex ester part polmer ester not the standard ester varient you describe.

The list of companies who use motul Nismo official oil, Expensive Daewoo Racing team, Konica Racing team GTP cup and CNJ Motorsport. All of which I believe to be acomplish motorsport competitors and engine builders or am I wrong?

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/motuloil.html

With the ability to withstand 365 degrees farenheiht or 185 degrees celcius I believe the oil to be adequate.

http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/fluids.htm

The imformation you require for high temperature shear of motul 300v 5w40.

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b14s113p1387

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16784

http://www.motorspot.com/300v.html

http://www.techcraft.co.uk/oilpage.html

[Paranormal]

Motul sounds like a good oil and will consider for next oil change but heres some info on another great oil though prolly more expensive -

REDLINE - followinw quotes taken fron teir web sites-

"Red Line lubricants contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a hot running engine or a turbocharger. More importantly, Red Line motor oils can significantly reduce engine wear, which means a longer useful life for your engine. Unlike other oils that break-down quickly, thus having to be changed at small intervals, Red Line has superior long-drain capabilities"

AND -

Red Line Formulates Fully-Synthetic Oils and Chemically-Advanced Additives Using Only the World's Finest Base Stocks

This makes Red Line Oil the premium product on the shelf. It's not designed to be the cheapest - it's built to be the best. Rather than cutting costs by blending into polyalphaolefin base stock for its motor oil, Red Line Oil only uses superior poly ester-based products resulting in lubricants that are extremely stable at high temperatures while providing superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced.

The world's top racing teams and most discriminating enthusiasts use Red Line Oil products exclusively. There may be a different sponsor on the outside, but chances are its Red Line Oil on the inside. "

So to cover a few previous questions / posts

Refreing to previous post - "We know under extreme conditions the oil temperature in the T can reach 150°C"

And Motul - "With the ability to withstand 365 degrees farenheiht or 185 degrees celcius I believe the oil to be adequate."

Which maybe sufficent if you dont go too hard and cool down your turbo befor shutting off etc, else consider Rdlines specs -

Redline Flash point 250c or 480F

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downl...20ALL%20002.pdf

Anyways from what I've found theres two types of syntheitcs, good synthitics and a hell of a lot better synthetics but the better come at a price.