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Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>


rorojoe

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Nulon 10w-40 is great I've been using it for the last few oil changes. Penrite 15w-40 is also good. 0w-40 or 0w-50 are probably good oils but they are not good oils for our cars, wrong spec. That Lawsy dude knows his oils for sure...

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this guy seems to know a bit too:

FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)

"It is time to dispel the notion that 0W-30 oil is too thin when our manual calls for 10W-30. A 0W-30 is always the better choice, always. The 0W-30 is not thinner. It is the same thickness as the 10W-30 at operating temperatures. The difference is when you turn your engine off for the night. Both oils thicken over the evening and night. They both had a thickness, a viscosity of 10 when you got home and turned your engine off. That was the perfect thickness for engine operation.

As cooling occurs and you wake up ready to go back to work the next day the oils have gotten too thick for your engine to lubricate properly. It is 75 F outside this morning. One oil thickened to a viscosity of say 90. The other thickened to a viscosity of 40. Both are too thick in the morning at startup. But 40 is better than 90 on start up. Your engine wants the oil to have a thickness of 10 to work properly. You are better off starting with the viscosity of 40 than the honey - like oil with a viscosity of 90.

I repeat: More confusion occurs because people think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem. In fact this is the problem. This is why multi-viscosity oils were developed.

This is the end of lesson number one."

Edited by JC807
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I'll continue with Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 :)

At least I will once I get the mods put on and replace the 10w-30 that Ford put in when they swapped my turbo under warranty (dumping 2 week old edge to do so, then trying to charge me for it!).

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JC807 got to remember that when the engine cools down the tolerances and gaps in the engine change too a lot of engine wear happens on these cold start-ups due to these not so optimal gaps so it's essential to have the right oil for those first few moments.

I'd be careful when someone says the thinner the better, if it really was the case I'd expect more manufacturers recommending 0w oils.

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I'm not pretending I'm an expert but I do find some of that article really interesting, here is a bit more that stood out:

"It is time to introduce the concept of lubrication. Most believe that pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 grade oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance is irrelevant.

In fact the relationship between pressure and flow is in opposition. If you change your oil to a thicker formula the pressure will go up. It goes up because the resistance to flow is greater and in fact the flow must go down in order for the pressure to go up. They are inversely related. Conversely if you choose a thinner oil then the pressure will go down. This can only occur if the flow has increased."

Dule: perhaps having good quality synthetic would have better film strength and so still protect at startup?

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Maybe, not knowlegable enough to say either way... But I try to stay close to the factory recomendation. Obviously if you're towing a big ass trailer up hill every day when it's boiling hot or live on antartica you'd want to alter the grade a little but still not too much...

Few years ago I had a Mazda 626 with a 2.5 V6 and noisy valve lifters so every oil change I would use a different grade to find the best compromise to deal with the noisy lifters, oil burn and oil leaks :) and you could notice a difference even if you just go one level up or down and that's why I'm sceptical when people recommend things like 0w-60 where for example 15w-30 is recommended.

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On my BFII I'm more inclined to listen to FPV recommendations which are a lower W rating I believe, but still go with what my tuner recommends. Backed up by the ferrari article it seems. :beerchug: Also by the castrol website under FPV turbo engine (0w-40).

Edited by -SteveR-
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These aren't ferraris. They are mass produced engines with mass produced tolerances. I use Penrite 15w40, works for me.

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