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Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>


rorojoe

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  • Wanabe mechanical engineer
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  • Member For: 20y 2m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: At the computer, obviously.....
Great info Lawsy.. Now I have a question for ya.

Nulon have this product "Nulon Performance Engine Treatment" and its got this "Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)" in it. Is there any real benifit adding this to a change.

They also have an engine oil flush.. Again is there any benifit?

Robbo

I got shut down by some fellow forum members with downs syndrome some time back (won't be mentioning any names but they were fairly moronic to say the least) for trying to help others by mentioning the multiple uses for this product.

Think of it like this, if I came onto this forum and said "oh there is this brand I heard about, called Ford, do they make any good cars?" Everyone would be happy to answer and what not. You do the same with anything else, and you're a "stooge". The reality is, they don't know what they're missing out on. People with no education might try and tell you it doesn't work (they certainly had none, if you can find the thread read it and see for yourself), but provide you with zero evidense of this.

In general, engineers with multiple degree's can not only explain why it works, but Nulon themselves had engineers from the competition test some of there new formula's, and still came up with the goods.

This product happens to be one of them. You can use it as an upper cylinder lube (prepare for some smoke though), double treat to help get rid of carbon deposits through bearings, rings and turbo's, you can put the stuff in old engines to help quiet them down a little (ie, my 354,000km astina, still going strong, still being thrashed, still refusing to die), and things like that.

It may also increase your fuel efficiency, but you may not be able to tell all that much, as it may only be 2%.

/rant

----------------------------------

As for the articles posted above, it was quite interesting to see that the high end Royal Purple stuff was fantastic, and so was the penrite gear (even the HPR, being a cheaper oil had a much higher shear strength, even though the results were the same when this was broken, at least it has a much higher chance of staying below the shear point). I've been saying to customers lately how good the penrite stuff is, this is just another bit of proof to add to the list.

It all starts with the base stock, use a quality base, and work from there. Its a shame the nulon stuff isn't in this test, since in similar tests it had results near the pointy end of the field.

I think the viscosity and temperature may not be ideal for this particular testing method, though. Something just doesn't add up with some of the results (ie, the Mobil1 results, I smell a bit of dead cow).

Mobil 1 is one of the few pure, ester based synthetic oils where they can actually say 'fully synthetic' and not lie to you. I find this results VERY hard to believe.

This post may not make huge sense and may be poorly typed out, look at the time, I jumped on to check ebay and ended up on here =/ Go figure.

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  • Wanabe mechanical engineer
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 20y 2m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: At the computer, obviously.....

Oh and it can't hurt to run an engine flush now and then through the motor, just don't leave it in there too long, and add it while the engine is already warm.

Only leave it for about 6 or 7 minutes, which should be plenty enough time to circulate.

Also when draining your oil, when its nearly empty, poor in 400ml of fresh oil in while its still draining to make sure you get out any of the flush that could be in the sump. This almost always works for getting that last bit of crap oil out of the sump that just didn't quite wanna come out on its own.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 9m 7d
  • Location: NSW

Oil ain't oils ! :innocent: this thread will never end !

Fellow forum members with downs syndrome, Lawsy that's not very nice at all whoever it was directed at. I would not expect something like this from someone with such knowledge & wisdom (in oils) as yourself...

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gympie

ive been using nulon 10-40 for a while now and its seems fine but with the growing list of mods may it be time to upgrade to the 15-40 or do they even do a 15-50??? Im just after a few opinions as its getting 100ks on the clock as well. What is my best option?? Does anyone believe in using that bi-tron addititive, it sounds impressive but I guess you never no what is in the oil start with and especially nulon if the claim it to be so friction-free.

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  • rob327
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  • Member For: 16y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW and Bribie Island QLD

top article there.... bit disappointing I paid out the ass for an average performer... 9439 kms to the next oil change

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane Southside

I am thinking about using amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Racing Oil for my next service as it is seems close to the 15w-40 we are supposed to use from what I can see and as I live in qld I do not need to woory about temperature more than -5 degrees or more than around +45 degrees

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 2m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

I think the article was in a street Late model camira magazine as my mechanic in townsville hands that article out as he stocks royal purple for the performance cars he tunes.

I use it in both my xr6t and supercharged xr8 with no problems

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 11m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Wanneroo, Perth WA

HYPNODOC - QUOTE" Has anyone used Motul before. I have barely heard of it but I figured that for the price it must be up on the top rung."

Motul is big in motorcycles and motocross bikes, its the best oil you can get for motocross bikes if that helps

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