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Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>


rorojoe

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  • 1 month later...
  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

Use the search function mate as this topic has been covered numerous times.

You'll also find the 'forum input' to be much the same as your outside world recommendations.

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  • Member For: 17y 7m 10d
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I can not resist posting here and probably starting a never ending discussion...

I'm amazed at a lack of knowledge regarding oils from from many qualified mechanics.

Here is what I recommend for street driving and why...

Ford recommends 10-30 for it's NA engines but since oil in the turbo engines would generally run warmer than in the NA engines a thicker oil is required hence why ford recommends 15-40. 15-40 is close but not perfect, they recommend this oil grade because they already had it for LPG engines and it was cheaper to use that than have an entire new line of oil for the turbo engines.

40 is the operating temperature viscosity and since NA engines use 30, it seems good to use 40 for the turbo engines.

15 is the viscosity when oil is cold and since the turbo engine would be running just the same as the NA engine when cold 15 is a little too thick and 10 would be more suitable.

So this is why I use a 10-40 engine oil for my car and would recommend the same to everyone else for normal driving conditions. Brand is not as important as the numbers. Just find a synthetic oil from a decent brand with those numbers. I use Penrite by the way.

Track days would require a thicker oil like 10-50 or 10-60 as it would run a lot hotter then on the street.

By the way I'm no mechanic or oil expert I've just done a lot of research and experimenting few years ago when I tried everything to silence noisy valve lifters on my V6 Mazda 626 and a change in viscosity makes a big difference how the engine runs.

I also know of few people that have user a too thick oil either themselves or by a mechanic and the car was noticeably slower and would be using a lot more fuel too. A too thin oil is not easy to notice but it would not be protecting the engine the way it's supposed to.

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

dule.

Firstly, what's up with this 'they recommend this oil grade because they already had it for LPG engines and it was cheaper to use that than have an entire new line of oil for the turbo engines'.

Recommending an oil because they 'already have it in another engine and it's cheaper' is a load of crap. Oil is recommended by the engineers not the bean counters.

Secondly, ' Brand is not as important as the numbers. Just find a synthetic oil from a decent brand with those numbers.' A bit contradictory don't you think?

Thirdly, 'A too thin oil is not easy to notice' is guessing isn't it. Here's some easy ways of telling. The knocking sound from your engine on startup due to the oil not getting up to pressure quick enough because it's too thin. Low oil pressure when up to operating temperature. More engine noise due to thin oil.

Your ideas about viscosity seem a bit off too.

I don't want to sound like I'm picking, but there's quite a few holes in your post and for new people to the forum who are not mechanically minded it would be better giving correct information.

Edited by PHANTMXR6
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  • Member For: 16y 2m 17d

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've gone with the Nulon 10w-40 and can say I've noticed the engine is so so smooth its very noticable! In fact its so smooth and quiet now it dosent feel as quick which is not the case. I love it. Just need to get another flash tuner, Those things really do change the cars performance.

Thanks again

cheers

Spooky_boots

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  • Member For: 21y 2m 22d
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  • Location: Townsville

I use 10-40 royal purple, not the dearer race performance one, just the dear normal performance brand!

I also have been using it in my 4 stroke rover mower for the last 6months as I was to lazy to buy oil from the shop when I was doing the change...lol

Mower is running mickey mouse!

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