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Clutch disengagement issues


rollex

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  • Member For: 10y 6m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

So I had a NPC clutch put in my BF XR6T about 7000kms ago. Since then I've broken the master and replaced it with a malwood one with the metal arm. I also did a full clutch bleed recently but I'm having disengagement issues. When new it changed nicely when warm and ok when cold. Now it feels random, if I leave the car for 4+ days it changes gears great. When I drive it daily it feels as if the clutch doesn't disengage properly and I get a syncro crunch in first and second, even if I double declutch it isn't much better. Take up point is about 1cm off the floor,  felt more like 1 inch when the clutch was new. 

 

When at lights if I put it into first and leave the clutch in the whole time the car gets a small jerk forwards as if the syncro is somehow transferring power to the wheels, once in gear it stops moving. 

 

Is this an indication of worn syncros or an issue disengaging the clutch? What can fail to make something like this get better when the car sits for several days? The box has 205,000 kms on it, car is an 07

 

Can anyone recommend a workshop in Adelaide near the cbd that specialises in clutches? Don't want to take it to some random so wants to drop the box but doesn't know what is wrong with it. 

Edited by rollex
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  • Member For: 8y 8m 16d

Maybe bleed the lines again and re-fill.... mite be air that somehow got in there?

 

Is this a single plate or twin? 

Have u spoken with npc?

 

My twin plate npc bolted to a tr6060 is harsh in 1st and 2nd and reverse  but smooth every other gear.

 

Id say its something simple.

 

@JETURBO thoughts/ able to help him? 

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  • Member For: 10y 6m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

Yeah I did another compete bleed of the system the outher week. No change at all so I don't think that is the issue. 

 

Single plate clutch. I'll ask NPC next. 

Edited by rollex
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  • Member For: 8y 7m 15d
  • Gender: Not Telling
  • Location: Radioactive wasteland

Is there any adjustment on the clutch fork? 

If it's good one day and farked then next I'm with ok mate Cris. It's gotta be fluid or the slave cylinder is shagged letting some air in. 

 

I dont think its the box. It sounds like clutch if it's trying to engage drive at the lights or jerking into gear. 

Edited by ROB83R
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  • Member For: 10y 6m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

It's all new gear though. New slave,master. I literally only did the fluid the other day. Pumped an extra 100ml of clear fluid with no bubbles just to be sure. 

 

NPC said there is no adjustment, should be 1 inch off the floor. Though initially they sent to the wrong pressure plate and it wouldnt disengage at all, they sent the right one after but maybe there is another issue. 

 

It is weird if you hold the clutch in the take up point feels as if it is over an inch  off the floor. It is almost as if the clutch is sticking or something. If you wait 5 seconds it goes into gear great.

Edited by rollex
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  • Member For: 10y 6m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

Yes that was how we found out they supplied the incorrect pressure plate. We measured it again on the replacement and it was correct, I can't remember what it was from memory though.

 

29 minutes ago, BAXRTUTE said:

Only takes a little bubble or two to fark things up... 

Im no expert at all here but @Ralph Wiggum is the falcoooon whisper and mite have some insite on the matter?

Yeah they are self bleeding though. When I first changed the master I didn't even do a bleed and all the bubbles just came out the resovoir and it drove fine with a few pumps of the pedal with the lid off. I've since done the full bleed though with no real change.

Edited by rollex
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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 3m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Air is getting into the system during operation. 4 days appears to be long enough for it to bleed out. 

 

Check the obvious connections and alignment of the MC. If it's on the piss it may draw air in during movement.

 

If nothing obvious presents itself topside it's likely a CSC issue. Doubly so if there is black gunk building up in the fluid.

 

Also if you feeling the car move when the syncro's are trying to brake the input shaft motion you're wearing them very quickly.

 

Also, if the clutch point has changed without any mechanical reason (ie after you had the correct PP installed and the crush depth set) but after the MC was changed it's possible the adjustment is incorrect and you're not getting full travel out of the MC.

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