BA XR6, Adding second amp, using OEM amp for sub?

[Ben_BAXR6]

Hi, Ive searched for a bit, but cant quite find the answers I'm looking for.

 

Im also a bit retarded when it comes to A/V in cars,  I usually rip it all out and run none, but Id like to have something nice in this, as it's also something for me to cruise around with my family in.

 

 

 

BA MKII XR6T, currently has afertmarket H/U, and a nakamichi 2 channel amp, controlling a pioneer 12" sub, but stock ford speakers, and it all sounds pretty poop. ICC also does nothing stereo wise.

 

Looking for a little guidance on how to wire a new setup in which is as follows, and anything I ned to be aware of?

 

 

I want to;

 

remove the A/M headhunt, and go back to the ICC,

replace all 4 speakers (worth replacing tweeters too? do they need a crossover or anything?) with some 5x7's

replace the 8" sub with a decent A/M one, 

use the nakamichi 2 channel amp bridged to run a pair of speakers per channel, and the factory ford amp to run the sub.

 

Is the above feasible? do I use line converters to the nakamichi amp, and then new wires to the speakers, and just wire up the sub as per factory? 

 

Ill buy a different amp if I have to, but id like to use what I currently have if I could.

 

Im not sure how it's all been wired up, but I'm assuming the aftermarket H/U, trigger wire for amp, and the RCA's etc are all stand alone, and the H/U's speaker wires are simply running the stock speakers.

 

Ill be adding some dynamat as well in the doors and the parcel shelf for good measure. Im not looking for SPL or anything, just something that's half decent to listen to.

 

 

Any advice for guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Edited 09/10/16 07:22 AM by Ben_BAXR6

[Ben_BAXR6]

Anyone?

 

Ive purchased Kicker CSS684 5x7 Splits for the front, CSS684 coaxial for the rear, and a 10C84 8" Sub for the rear.

 

Im thinking Im going to go with a pair of line convertors off the rear speakers n(I do need a pair right? on for the front and one for the rear speakers?) to the nakamichi amp and run the speakers to them, and try a new sub off the OEM amp, but just want to know if the OEM Amp has enough power to run an 100w 4ohm FA sub?

 

Also where is the best place to get a trigger wire for the nakamichi amp? Is it simply a 12v feed that comes on with ignition?

[skidxr6t]

Hey, welcome to the forum dude! straight out I would highly recommend you run an aftermarket headunit which has the outputs you need to go straight into an amp.

 

To signal the amp to turn on, you find a +12v wire that is switched with ignition.

 

would also install sound deadener in at least the front doors, like this stuff:

http://www.carbuilders.com.au/sound-deadener

 

edit: just realised if you're after a good sound system, why not consider a full turboside intake (intercooler, pipework etc) with a huge exhaust system?

Edited 15/10/16 03:57 AM by skidxr6t

[Ralph Wiggum]

What head unit do you have and what's your reasoning behind removing it? 

[Ben_BAXR6]

  On 15/10/2016 at 3:52 AM, skidxr6t said:

Hey, welcome to the forum dude! straight out I would highly recommend you run an aftermarket headunit which has the outputs you need to go straight into an amp.

 

To signal the amp to turn on, you find a +12v wire that is switched with ignition.

 

would also install sound deadener in at least the front doors, like this stuff:

http://www.carbuilders.com.au/sound-deadener

 

edit: just realised if you're after a good sound system, why not consider a full turboside intake (intercooler, pipework etc) with a huge exhaust system?

Expand  

 

Thanks!.

 

Car already has an aftermarket HU, which is sh*t, and Im looking to switch back.

 

Ive already purchased a box of deadener from car builders  to do the doors parcel shelf etc. Ive used that stuff on the last 2-3 cars I've built. Much prefer it over dynomat.

 

Car already makes 330kw on 17 psi/98, we're switching to e85 in the next couple of weeks, and aiming for 430-450kw. Car has Plazmaman intake/MTA750 turbo/PW throttle relocate/NIZPRO Cooler and piping/4 inch dump/HF Cat/XForce exhaust/044 pump/60lbinjecotrs/built BTR etc, and runs 11's on drag radials. Hoping to go 10.5's and trap 130. So it's fast enough for the time being haha.

 

 

  On 15/10/2016 at 4:12 AM, Ralph Wiggum said:

What head unit do you have and what's your reasoning behind removing it? 

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A/ current headhunt is a Pioneer MXT-X166ui and I hate where is it down there. it also only has one set on rca's, so id really have to upgrade that while I'm at it. also hard to access the controls while driving as the shifter is usually in the way.

B/ Steering wheel controls don't work. I know I can buy adapters and stuff to make that happen though.

C/ I want to put more gauges in its place

D/ it doesn't match at all in the interior.

 

I know the way it's setup is the easiest way to do it, but id really like to go back to the ICC if I could.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Icc sounds quality is shite.  Nothing you will do will fixed that. 

[skidxr6t]

some headunits can work with the steering wheel controls.

 

I agree with you on the location, it's crap. but if you ask any car audio shop they'll always recommend an aftermarket headunit.

  On 15/10/2016 at 6:16 AM, Ben_BAXR6 said:

Car already makes 330kw on 17 psi/98, we're switching to e85 in the next couple of weeks, and aiming for 430-450kw. Car has Plazmaman intake/MTA750 turbo/PW throttle relocate/NIZPRO Cooler and piping/4 inch dump/HF Cat/XForce exhaust/044 pump/60lbinjecotrs/built BTR etc, and runs 11's on drag radials. Hoping to go 10.5's and trap 130. So it's fast enough for the time being haha.

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all I can say to this is hell yeah and

[Ben_BAXR6]

  On 15/10/2016 at 6:40 AM, Ralph Wiggum said:

Icc sounds quality is sh*te.  Nothing you will do will fixed that. 

Expand  

 

Elaborate? Is it the ICC itself or the use of line convertors etc?

 

  On 15/10/2016 at 7:23 AM, skidxr6t said:

some headunits can work with the steering wheel controls.

 

I agree with you on the location, it's crap. but if you ask any car audio shop they'll always recommend an aftermarket headunit.

 

all I can say to this is hell yeah and

Expand  

 

Ive spent the last few hours reading up, and I was pretty adamant about running the ICC by itself, until I came across this thread, and now I agree with previous comments that A/M head unit is the right way to go.

 

and I think this is what Ill do;

 

Purchase New DVD head unit, RGB Convertor, OEM Ford Aux Booster, and a New Lower Single DIN Facia that has the pocket, not just the mount type like my current one.

Use the OEM Ford amp Driven by the ICC to power new aftermarket sub

Use New head unit to drive nakamichi amp and run F+R Sound stage,

This way I get DVD's, good sound, full adjustability, Steering wheel controls, IPOD and MP3 capability and I only need to spend a couple of hundred more to buy a H/U.

 

Can anyone see any flaws in my thinking?

Edited 16/10/16 05:13 AM by Ben_BAXR6

[Ben_BAXR6]

Or alternatively ill purchase the ASL Audio/video conversion kit, and a DVD head unit, and still use the OEM ford amp for the sub and the nakamichi 2 channel for the F+R Sound stage.

 

But either way, its not as I envisaged it, but the end result will be better.

[arronm]

that's what I am running until the speakers, amps and subs go in.  Pioneer 7500BT, Just bought the new model as well 7800BT.

 

Edited 16/10/16 06:29 AM by arronm