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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 10m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

The fact of the matter is B series suffer surge from the tank design so no matter how good an intank is you haven't removed the surge issues 

 

a faster flowing intank with just suck up more air faster and pump it through the system when surge occurs 

 

an anti surge tank does exactly what is says.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

FACT !!!!

  • Like 2

Take note Hussydabomb to what lads like Jet and Ralphy say, these boys have been fooking with these cars for more than10 yrs and know there sh#t when it comes to setting up these cars up correctly.

Just my 2cents worth.

  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 4m 3d

Ok well looks like a surge is the go, I just saw the latest posts. Don't want another blown engine... that will make it the 3rd one..

Thanks for the info guys helped a lot!

Pretty excited. Was making 310rwkw on 17psi bleeding down to a pathetic 10psi...

Next mod 1000hp nizpro cooler

Electronic boost controller (GeForce 2)

E85 Injectors and pump plus tune

Got valve springs from my old engine if I need to throw them in I will

  • MattyP
  • Cruise Control
  • Member For: 12y 11m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Coast

Don't get a boost controller

And I've been running an intank for years and only issue I had was a buildup of crap on the sick filter and a seal going

  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 17y 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Did he have any explanation as to the previous two engine failures?

 

If you can't hold boost, you probably don't need a new boost controller, you probably need either better hardware to hold the boost (actuator/ported rear turbo housing/wastegate flapper mod/boost solenoid) and/or better software setup to hold the boost (better tune).

  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 4m 3d

Well the first rod out of the sump was from Horsepower Factory after aprox 5,000km after doing the tune

This one was after about the same.

Honestly I did put my foot down a fair bit but never redlined it.

We did have a talk over the phone and the bloke at dynomite put it down to the oil possibly.. I used Penrite 15-50 fully synthetic if I recall not that I see anything wrong with that oil.

He agreed to go over the tune again after I put the new engine in and all that.

I do have a turbosmart 12psi actuator and a ported rear turbo housing that's why I'm resorting to the EBC

 

Also ill add they both shot the rod at aprox 3,000RPM when it began to spool up and they were both ba engines first tune blew at 270rwkw auto... I know unbelievable

Now 310rwkw 10psi 6 speed manual now

I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk

  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 17y 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

So the tuner in both instances never gave you information on what actually caused the engine failure?

 

I seriously doubt that just 15w-50 oil would cause a rod to attempt to exit the block...

 

If they're not willing to give you a reasonably accurate diagnosis, personally, I'd be choosing a different tuner.

If the tune has boost falling over in the top end down to 10PSI when you have a 12PSI actuator, then it's either leaking wastegate/manifold/housing that's bleeding off boost, too much exhaust backpressure to limit boost as flow increases or in the tune...

  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 4m 3d

I cant exactly start a fight with the current tuner as its better to keep the friction to a minimal if I want him to take another look at it. Ill go over the manifold and make sure its been torqued down and do a compression test on the piping.

Also I've got a screamer pipe on it atm with an internal waste gate if that makes a difference?

I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk

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