Next stage of mods.

[k31th]

Yep... that's not a great tune.

Torque falls like a runaway train and PSI drops consistently throughout the rev rage... hence the "plateau" of the "power curve" in your graph. Torque should rise to near 4000 revs then start to fall off in the high rev ranges, but not drastically. PSI for a low-ish power tune should remain pretty stable throughout hte rev range. That sort of PSI is low 300rwkw on a good quality tune (obviously depends on hardware within the car). 

 

Like suggested above, take it to a person who knows what's going on with regard to tuning XR6T's.

[JETURBO]

10-11psi up top on stock pump/injectors would be soooooo lean it will go bang 

 

I would stay right off the loud pedal mate and get it re tuned 

 

now you know why AFR isn't posted on the sheet  

 

 

[MattyP]

Oh mann that's Terrible 

Return to stock if possible and find someone who knows what they are doing

Dont scrimp out on a good tuna

Vic has quiet a few that go pretty good

[XRBoost]

I have been recommended to a bloke who has tuned a plethora of fords, great reputation. I'm returning it to stock tune, knew the bloke was talking sh*t when I saw the dyno graph but I still fell for it. Well what a giant waste of money. Not a great feeling when the tune is getting sh*t bagged by every tuner I took it to. Even moreso the car is borderline dangerous the way its tuned. 

[MattyP]

Good idea mate

Who are you taking it to?

[XRBoost]

Matt Branch from Bullet Performance racing. I should have taken it to him from the start. 

[discostig]

Not quite apples to apples but my BFII made 208rwkw stock (well, K&N air filter hahaha) and ran 13.59 (ZF auto).  Weak BA rods are dangerous if the tuner isn't on their game.  Some are able to get great results even with BA rods so it shouldn't hold you back too much.  Valve springs will though as they get weak over time anyway.

 

Good list of planned mods mate.  I got mine a 50% increase from stock by doing second hand Nizpro cooler+piping (stock crossover still on top of engine), replacement in tank fuel pump GSS294 (tuner choice), full Manta mild steel exhaust 2x 2.5" pipes with twin cats, and 42lb injectors.  Stock turbo/actuator.  15PSI tune and 317rwkw = 11.9 on the quarter.

 

All up including XCAL ($600) and tuner fitment/custom tune I spent $5300.  $1800 of that was the exhaust so could save money just doing dump and cat.

 

Solid line is power, dotted is torque.  Torque values can be mucked with easily on wheel dynos though and some read off different units of measurement so it's hard to compare.

 

 

 

Boost graph

 

 

 

Retune when I had valve springs changed 100,000km later - same tuner but new dyno equipment.  The blue line was showing power had dropped with the new valve springs in, I opted for a retune to be done to make the most of the new springs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck!

Edited 11/05/16 05:49 AM by -Stever-

[XRBoost]

Thanks Stever, it always helps to see what others have done. Seems like you've got a beast on your hands there.  I want to have the car perform as it should, plus the mods to go eith it. I want it to make power but safely. 

[skidxr6t]

59 minutes ago, XRBoost said:

Well what a giant waste of money. Not a great feeling when the tune is getting sh*t bagged by every tuner I took it to. Even moreso the car is borderline dangerous the way its tuned. 

 

I'd be ringing the shop and asking for your money back. Depends how much they charged you but it's still worth asking and maybe even having another workshop write a letter.

 

If you check out some build threads you'll notice a trend in certain quality brands being used. process west/plazmaman/xforce/nizpro/etc for example.

[barnz]

yeahhhhhh.....can you flash back to stock. Torque curve is weird. Bet its pulling timing out the entire run....