Engine oil for running in

[daveyboii]

Hey fellas,

 

Just hoping a few people on here can give me some info on their own personal experiences / preferences for engine oil in particular for running in process.

I know theres 100x engine oil threads already but from my understanding since ive got an f6 block with reco'd 6T you're meant to use a particular oil for run in then switch to something else later down the track.

 

I keep reading mixed feedback of people saying they have been told by service advisors when getting their first few initial services depending on dealer they are saying they use a synthetic 5w-30 or 10w-40 looks like it varied from each dealership preference and I also read somewhere that you are mean't to use a mineral oil rather than synthetic/semi-synthetic for run in?
 

any guidance in the right direction is appreciated.

 

[daveyboii]

tried to do some snooping to see if atomic listed what they use, looks like they list 2/3 oils on their price list as nulon and then their running in oil has the following description shown on photo attachment, looked on nulons site they have a 15w-40 mineral that say suitable for run in but doesn't mention anything about synthetic

[MurdoK]

I bought my car ex demo and that was run in on ford branded oil for first 5000kms till I took it.was run in hard too being a demo and was evident with the diff bushes being shagged at 5000kms. Then was tuned straight away and put onto castrol synthetic that the workshop used.sorry but I forget the grade. Motor still running good with 80 thousand on the clock. Oil never sits in car longer then 7500ks.

[discostig]

For long term use I was running Castrol Edge 0w-40 as recommended by tuner (XFT), at about 225,000km I changed to Edge 5w-40 (cheaper).  Now past 300,000km.

 

Have heard run in with mineral based is the go on here but no idea on weight.

 

Oh and change it and filter every 7,500 as well, sometimes a bit longer but that's my target.

Edited 11/04/16 06:40 AM by -Stever-

[MattyP]

You cnan run in on full syn but you have to change it so quickly there is no point

[gaz097]

You want to wear the rings into the bore so a low quality mineral oil is best to bite the rings in.

A synthetic oil is too slippery and will glaze the bore (cause it's good at wear protection) and prevent the rings making a good seal.

Ideally use Joe Gibbs break in oil.

[discostig]

Don't baby it, but don't thrash it to death either.  Try to vary to load on the engine, avoid sitting at solid revs for long.  Engine brake downhill too.  Heard doing those things makes it perform better long term.

[Puffwagon]

Assuming honed bores, new rings and bearings I would run my car in thusly;

 

If I was doing it on the road then I would put my stock wg, dump and cat back on.

I would zero out the desired boost in my tune.

 

I would install an oil pressure gauge temporarily. 

 

I would warm the car up by driving around with no more than 2500rpm and no wot.

 

Once it was at operating temp I would do wot 3rd gear pulls from 40kph to 110 for 20 minutes.

 

I'd drive home and drop the running in oil and filter and open the filter to make sure the bearings are still ok. I'd also check for leaks then too .

 

Then I'd replace the filter and oil with every day stuff. 

 

I'd put my aftermarket parts back on, reload my tune and proceed to thrash it. 

 

Alternatively I'd put it on a dyno and pay someone to run it in for me. 

 

[Ralph Wiggum]

Drive it how you intend to drive it.

[Puffwagon]

8 minutes ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

Drive it how you intend to drive it.

Unless you intend to drive like a grandma in which case you will probably glaze your bores and then it's honing time again.