Low compression on No. 5 cylinder and rough idle

[discostig]

Bugger.  Wonder what the quote from Ford + the mechanic's time will be.

Get a new engine is my vote unless you get an attractive offer to repair the existing one.  Unless the mechanic has done many successful rebuilds in the past I'd be paranoid it wouldn't be the best it could be though!  Not to cast dispersions on your mechanic of course, I know nothing about him, but I'd want the best I could afford for my baby in that situation, which I think would be a new engine from Ford or a rebuild at the specialist (Pitlane), depending on costs of both.

Try to distract yourself over the long weekend!

[sixman]

Feel for you Viper and understand the pain.

Recently blew number 6 cylinder in my car, debris took out the turbine wheel on my turbo as well.

My car was highly modified though, succumbed to a faulty injector.

For a complete job was quoted $5-7k for new Ford FG engine or $11-13k for 1000hp built engine. New turbo on top of that.

Hope Ford come to the party for you!

[Vipir]

3 hours ago, -Stever- said:

Bugger.  Wonder what the quote from Ford + the mechanic's time will be.

Get a new engine is my vote unless you get an attractive offer to repair the existing one.  Unless the mechanic has done many successful rebuilds in the past I'd be paranoid it wouldn't be the best it could be though!  Not to cast dispersions on your mechanic of course, I know nothing about him, but I'd want the best I could afford for my baby in that situation, which I think would be a new engine from Ford or a rebuild at the specialist (Pitlane), depending on costs of both.

Try to distract yourself over the long weekend!

Problem is: how do I get my car to Melbourne? Tow truck would charge per millimetre of tread. I can't drive it. The engine is out of the car now.

How did it go from being spark plug to injector to coil pack to rings to this? How? It's like a nightmare that just keeps getting worse with each day. I WISH it was just rings now, but this...this is just beyond unbelievable.

Short motor might just be the way to go.

I received my RACV magazine today - Australia's best cars is the banner on the cover. I think I might just have a look.

I'll keep y'all in the loop. (Goes away to contemplate life in general and cars in particular).

[Vipir]

58 minutes ago, sixman said:

Feel for you Viper and understand the pain.

Recently blew number 6 cylinder in my car, debris took out the turbine wheel on my turbo as well.

My car was highly modified though, succumbed to a faulty injector.

For a complete job was quoted $5-7k for new Ford FG engine or $11-13k for 1000hp built engine. New turbo on top of that.

Hope Ford come to the party for you!

I doubt they will sixman. I mean, look at the facts as they stand now:

Buggered bores due to possibly bad fuel. What's it to Ford that this has happened? The onus would be on me to ensure good fuel goes in and isn't their responsibility.

If it was a faulty part installed at manufacturing or during a service, I think I could have a good case. But fuel? Caveat emptor. They may say I should have taken more care with the petrol stations I attended and they they are not responsible for the damage that comes from putting in bad fuel.

I do not think that Ford will help me on this one 

[Puffwagon]

I can think of a few possible solutions. Most of them will require your participation, some more than others.

1. Only the engine needs repairing so send the engine to your repairer in a box. The car can stay where it is. Your mechanic can fit it later.

2. If you have the logistics available then put the engine back on the mounts or in a box, the bolts etc in a box and put it all on a hired car trailer and take the entire vehicle to the repairer that way. You may have a friend that will help in this regard. Perhaps a forum member is close by and will help for costs covered and a big mac or two. If not a hire vehicle can tow.

3. RACV. They may cover the cost of a tow truck for you or at least part of the cost. Call them for details.

4. Your car or home insurance may help with the problem. Again, a call to them will determine if this is a viable solution.

5. Second hand turbo motor with above options.

6. Second hand high comp motor with a tune to ensure a lack of detonation, also with above options.

7. Speak to your mechanic or other reputed mechanics about the issue. Some guys will take the time to discuss your options even if you don't use them for the repair. They may have options available that haven't surfaced yet.

I can suggest other options but that would only help someone that can rebuild a motor so are not applicable here.

A Ford dealer in Victoria rebuilt the engine in my car before I purchased it, through their chosen repairer. I can't find the receipt right now but iirc it was closer to $10k than $5k.

Good luck, don't rush the expensive decisions and let us know how you get on.

 

[discostig]

Great advice!

[k31th]

As long as number 6 "high comp" is meaning a motor with high compression rating across all cylinders rather than "high compression ratio" (as that's bad for a turbo motor) then yep, agreed that puff's advice is sound. 

5 hours ago, Vipir said:

"Leaning out" was a new one which I will have to look up.

By the way, "Leaning out" means that there is too much air in the cylinder compared to the fuel amount at the time and the combustion process can be too intense (simplified) and this can cause cylinder damage via pressure at the wrong time or detonation (ping). 

[barnz]

brand new f6 long 6k. then labour your mechanic charges. Ford definitely wont help? they might be able to help with that 6k a bit? not sure what an fg service engine costs havent seen any for sale.

otherwise if your going to get a motor rebuilt it should be done by one of the pros as others have mentioned if you want atleast factory reliability or better...then you start to get into things like "if im getting it rebuilt I may as well do better rods, pistons, girdle, all the best fastners, bearings, machining, pump gears ect ect" poof goes well over 10k by time its in the car running.

New service engine or a low k donor that your mechanic can just change over is probably the best bet.

perhaps ford will feel sorry for you and heavily discount a new long....long shot..

Also the term "lean out" means not enough fuel, which means high cylinder temps which can even lead to a hot plug/spots, thus leading to pre ignition... too lean = death basically

[Vipir]

46 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:

I can think of a few possible solutions. Most of them will require your participation, some more than others.

1. Only the engine needs repairing so send the engine to your repairer in a box. The car can stay where it is. Your mechanic can fit it later.

2. If you have the logistics available then put the engine back on the mounts or in a box, the bolts etc in a box and put it all on a hired car trailer and take the entire vehicle to the repairer that way. You may have a friend that will help in this regard. Perhaps a forum member is close by and will help for costs covered and a big mac or two. If not a hire vehicle can tow.

3. RACV. They may cover the cost of a tow truck for you or at least part of the cost. Call them for details.

4. Your car or home insurance may help with the problem. Again, a call to them will determine if this is a viable solution.

5. Second hand turbo motor with above options.

6. Second hand high comp motor with a tune to ensure a lack of detonation, also with above options.

7. Speak to your mechanic or other reputed mechanics about the issue. Some guys will take the time to discuss your options even if you don't use them for the repair. They may have options available that haven't surfaced yet.

I can suggest other options but that would only help someone that can rebuild a motor so are not applicable here.

A Ford dealer in Victoria rebuilt the engine in my car before I purchased it, through their chosen repairer. I can't find the receipt right now but iirc it was closer to $10k than $5k.

Good luck, don't rush the expensive decisions and let us know how you get on.

 

See? Proof I am mechanically inept! I was thinking the whole kit and kaboodle had to go down together. I didn't even think about just the engine by itself!

Duh!

That is great advice and I will talk to my mechanic when he gets the quote. He won't be doing the rebuild, but I bet he'll be making sure everything is perfect for me.

[Puffwagon]

18 minutes ago, k31th said:

As long as number 6 "high comp" is meaning a motor with high compression rating across all cylinders rather than "high compression ratio" (as that's bad for a turbo motor) then yep, agreed that puff's advice is sound. 

By the way, "Leaning out" means that there is too much air in the cylinder compared to the fuel amount at the time and the combustion process can be too intense (simplified) and this can cause cylinder damage via pressure at the wrong time or detonation (ping). 

I meant na short block. Not ideal but doable cheaply and with a tune won't detonate. If there is more than 10 to 20 psi difference between cylinders in a motor depending if turbo or not then it needs addressing and should not be used as a replacement.

The OP has already said she hardly flogs her car and isn't looking for more power so won't be running significantly more boost than stock.

Clearly with higher comp and a tune the car will drive better than stock and some more power can be dialed in safely with minimal cost difference or detriment to longevity.