AUII XR6 Rear Brakes not working, may have been a drift pig with modded rear brakes.

[Riddik]

Just purchased a 2001 AUII XR6, that we discovered after that the car may have been used as a Drift Pig by a well known local Hoon.
When we purchased the car we knew that it had been damaged on the near side as the front bumper (that were also look for a replacement for) is severely damaged (no near side indicator or place to mount it), and we knew all the brake pads needed replacement, which we've done, and that the near side rear brake when previously done hadn't been tightened correctly and had come off so that brake calliper wasn't even installed, with the brake hose clamped with a pair of vice grips and cable tied to the control arm.
Upon installing another calliper on the near side rear, and changing the rotor's on both the front and rear, we are unable to bleed the brakes as no fluid comes through on the either side of the rear, the far side rear calliper hasn't been replaced, and the it's plunger moves as it should.
We took the car to a local tyre/wheel shop, and after explaining what we discovered, and who had previously worked on the car, they suggested that the car was determinately used for Hooning and Drifting, and they've come across a few cars that this Hoon in question has done similar things, and suggested to undo all the connections in the brake lines to check if there's been anything like ball bearings, or rivets to impede the flow of the fluid. So I did this today and found nothing.
Is it possible (as I've discovered on another Ford Page) that blocking flow may have affected the other rear calliper that hasn't been replaced and could be stopping the fluid? Although, I did remove the main feed at the rear before it splits off too each side of the vehicle, and it was dry. Even had the wife pump the break peddle just to see if any fluid would come out, so as to indicate if the blockage is before that point.
Also, not sure if this the right place to ask this. The near side rear spindle has two broken wheel studs. I have replacements, and was able to knock out the broken studs, but there isn't enough rom between the brake backing plate and spindle to put the new studs in. Now I read elsewhere on this forum on a thread from 2014 sometime that someone suggested drilling a hole through the dust shield I think it was, and someone had posted some example pics, which look like a solid rear axle assembly. This car has IRS. I was wondering if drilling a hole for the stud to fit through would be safe to do without compromising the integrity of the backing plate, seeing as though the callipers are bolted to that plate, or am I going to have to remove the hub which the mechanic will have to do, seeing as I don't have the tools for that.
I know I could just pay the mechanic to do it, but I was really hoping to get it working in the next few days, as he's on holiday atm.
Any help, and guidance would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

[skidxr6t]

alright look it might be costly but the only solution to this is to fit a turbo to the engine.

I'd just goto a wrecker and buy new lines if you cant find whats going on?

Edited 12/02/16 02:40 PM by johnxr6t

[Riddik]

I found on another site that blocking the lines the way whoever done it can cause one or both of the calipers to cease working, and one of them can cause the fluid to stop flowing. Luckily we have another AU vehicle where the only difference in the running gear (despite it not being an xr or tickford), is the rear axle being a solid diff. I'm going to swap the other rear caliper this afternoon, and see if that makes any difference, then as you say I'll be looking at the brake lines. I'll try the easier options first.

[Riddik]

I have now replaced both lines from the master cylinder to the Power Assist Block, and replaced the Power Assist Unit as well, and still no fluid flow to the rear end.
Now it looks like the only thing left to do is to use the compressor and try to blow the line out, and if that doesn't work, replace the line.
How hard is it to replace the line without a car hoist, as I would imagine it would be quite easy to kink the line without enough room to manoeuvre the line.

 

[masda74]

I am no pro, so don't take this as gospel. If you got no fluid coming through at the rear, then would it not be easier to have a look at the front of the car where the ABS unit is, to see if he has crimped the lines?

That is assuming that the AU has the ABS unit? Normally brake fluid goes from the master cylinder to the ABS and then from the ABS to the callipers.

If you got no fluid at the rear before the split, then it is possible that he has blocked the line before that point?

 

In all seriousness, this is brakes we are talking about. it is used to stop the car. I know that only the back brakes are not working, but if you damage something else and the brakes fail......

You are in a world of hurt.

I think you are better of letting the mechanic looking at the issue for you.

[Riddik]

I've actually now changed the ABS (I thought was called a Power Assist, goes to show what I know), off the other AU we have that the brakes worked fine on. I've also changed all the Rotor's and calliper's, and both the feed and return lines to no avail. Only thing left is to change the line from the ABS unit to the rear. Shame it's not in two parts then I could easily swap that from the other vehicle as well. Despite the cost of the XR6, and the work we've done so far, we're still better off than fixing the donor car, as it has electrical problems that two auto electrician's haven't been able to solve, even with changing the ECU.

Regardless of everything I've done, the car will be going to a mechanic to have the front end upgraded with better than factory bushings and a heavy front sway bar, which given where we live would drastically help the handling of the roads here. The mechanic isn't local, and were not near any major towns, hence trying to do what I can before having our mechanic intervene, so we can at least get it too him.

[masda74]

ahh okay, gotchya. Thought you were in the CBD. 

Good luck then and fingers crossed. Maybe contact the previous owner and ask him, what he did so you can undo it?

He might just tell ya?

[Riddik]

All good.

The guy that is suspected to have used it for fun is known to the mechanic we've spoken too, and apparently is known to most of the car places in Tasmania for basically ruining cars, don't know how he keeps getting away with it.

Spoke to our mechanic yesterday, and he suggested that if we can get into Supercheap (or other parts retailer) in Devonport and purchase a pipe cutter, flaring kit, and joiners and replace the line from the other car by cutting and joining it at the bottom of the firewall, which will at least enable us to get the rear brakes working, so we can get the vehicle too him. He confirmed that it really needs to be up on a hoist to be able to feed the line in one piece, which he'll do next month, otherwise he'd come out to us and do it.

What they say about second hand cars rings true again I guess, buying other people's problems.
 

[Riddik]

Just wanted to say Thanks to all that helped. I got the Rear Brakes working again. Replaced the Master Cylinder and Booster, and used a compressor to force high air-pressure down the line from the rear end. Mechanic turned up half way through of me using the air-pressure, and he noted that what came out of the lines was built up burnt fluid, which he says isn't surprising if the engine has been given a hard time with high revs, and the extractors would have burnt the fluid in the line most likely where it travels along the firewall behind the engine. I'm going to remove the heat sheild from the headers of the donor car, and put that on the xr6 to at leat reduce some of the heat and so that it's reflected towards the ground more, as per the mechanic's suggestions. I guess you can tell I'm quite chuffed to have the brakes working, especially seing as my wife and kids will be using the car. TF, I didn't have to cut the lines, lol.