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Fg Heat Exchanger Genuine Vs Aftermarket (Eg:pwr)


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  • Member For: 19y 9m 17d
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  • Location: North Jamberoo, NSW

I'd go with a PWR I bet there would be much of a difference in price from a PWR to a Fraud one.

Whats is 1k for peace of mind to 4k to fixing the car because of milkshake.

PWR!!

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  • in the mid....not the bum like some
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  • Member For: 11y 7m 21d
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Where are all the issues on the cars with air to air transmission coolers?

They have been on the ZF for 7 years plus before this heat exchanger came along.

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  • Member For: 11y 24d
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  • Location: Brisbane

Biz, does indeed work. Expensive and still has the risk of mixing water. Don't care how good the pwr unit is, sh*t breaks sometimes. That's life.

Pix, pretty sure that is exactly what pwr thought word for word when they priced it......

Electrical idea may not work thinking bout it more, anything over 1000w is starting to get ridiculous current draw wise.

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 14d
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Personally I wouldn't trust the PWR unit. Still the chance of cross contamination down the track.

I replaced my heat exchanger with a genuine one 6/2012 and Expensive Daewoo 5yr red coolant. Now got to decide whether oil cooler or another heat exchange. Might stick another 8r2z7a095bd on. If sticking to the heat exchanger it is getting a new one every 3 yrs.

My theory is that the factory fill coolant was not that good and was responsible for taking out a few heat exchangers.

When I first changed my coolant after being in the car 3 yrs from new, it wasn't the best. I just changed last week after 3 yrs and the coolant was like new. So I figure if good quality coolant used, it should keep the heat exchanger good.

I put in 8yr penrite red coolant this time but will still do the whole thing again in 3 yrs.

Edited by turbotrana
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  • Member For: 11y 6m 18d
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^^^ Theres one theory then I suppose lol

So you think the cases where brand new cars with bugger all kms failed cause the coolant was bad from factory? Thought the engine vibrations also had something to do with some cases? But I guess you could call it heresay...

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 17y 1m 17d
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I went for a new orange dot. Original parts = warranty for me. $175

IMG_5697_zpseirumyrb.jpg

Edited by arronm
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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 2m 21d
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I have my theory as to why the original coolers fail and it's not to do with coolant quality. They are of furnace brazed construction and mounted to an engine that produces high amounts of vibration almost bang inline with the centre line of the rotating assembly that creates the vibration exposing them to high amounts of vibration.

Do I need to mention vibration again?

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  • Member For: 11y 1m 4d
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  • Location: Gold Coast

Im just about to head down this road and after reading EVERY thread about it im still kinda confused..

IM also about to build a tuff box and the idea of an form of milkshake turns me away from the heat exchanger all together..

As skids said before there were exchangers there were many people using oil to air systems..

I had one on my last Jatco (Mazda) box and the fan ran all the time and saw the street a lot but I could never hurt it at the strip

even with 30+psi transbrake launches etc.. Ran Transmax Z too which is what I run now in my ZF..

Iv decided to build a kit basically the same as the Serious Performance Kit BUT with 1/2" lines and tanks, up from the 10mm that they run, for extra flow..

It will also have a 10" fan and a Davies Craig Digital fan controller set to about 93deg.. The controller is a dual curcuit too so will also use it to run another fan for an oil cooler I intend to setup at the same time.. the controller runs the 2nd fan a few seconds after fan 1 is activated by the digitally selected temperature so will keep oil temps in check too..

I am mounting them under the passenger seat with a custom shroud to stop unwanted debree banging up on them..

I believe the trans cooler kits from CMS are mounted in the same place..

All up the cooler will be less than $500 + another $250 for the oil cooler setup so in total less than just taking care of a PWR heat exchanger which I think is overpriced too..

Another trick I read somewhere is to put the car in reverse for 10-15 seconds when cold and it heats the fluid up ever so slightly or I also reckon stalling it up for 5-10 seconds will heat the fluid when cold too...

With the extra clutches from the build I dont reckon I will suffer from damage or flair from being cold BUT I will have the insurance of it keeping cool during stall ups at the drags and also powercruise lap style track days.. which is mainly what its being built for..

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