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Diy Tuning


Ralph Wiggum

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  • Member For: 10y 5m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

Set O2 sensors to 1 and set the O2 sensor warm-up temp to 4096c or set the warm-up time to 10000 minutes. O2 will remain in open loop if you do that. 

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 9m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

@eff xr6t

 

You've almost got all of your questions answered but I'll add to it anyway.

 

1) You need to change the speed source and that can be configured in hp tuners and has been available for a few years at least that I know of. Maybe there will be further parameters than can be accessed when pcmtec comes along further. Older versions of the software (hp tuners) actually had the names of the sources listed iirc whereas the most recent update has changed slightly. You will find this part of the tune under "Speedo/calibration/hardware". I haven't played with it recently but previously I raised my speed limiter and the car wouldn't actually go over 230 until I changed the speed source. All I can suggest is to enable/disable parts of this area and also play with the vss source scalar.

 

2)

9 hours ago, rollex said:

Set O2 sensors to 1 and set the O2 sensor warm-up temp to 4096c or set the warm-up time to 10000 minutes. O2 will remain in open loop if you do that. 

Whs^ You'll find this part of the tune in "Engine/Open and closed loop/Closed loop". You'll notice that the time is listed in seconds rather than minutes and the maximum is 65000 seconds. I did this when I was touching up my injector scaling to match the actual commanded lambda in the tune. You can also leave it like this for a road car and save a bit of fuel as you can run it leaner.

 

If you didn't have a dead sensor and wanted to leave the sensor working for idle and cruise you could just change the "open loop fuel tps threshold vs rpm" table to swap to your base table with less tps percentage. This is something that I personally change when the boost is turned up as the stock turbo will make plenty of boost with not much throttle and the fuel just isn't there on the stock tune because of this table.

 

3)

9 hours ago, DarrylC said:

Third, just use HP Tuners to tell it the boost sensor and wastegate sensor are not fitted.

Whs^ You can just run it off the actuator. The stuff to change is in "Engine/SCTC General" and there's only a couple of things on this page.

 

Anyways I hope this helps.

Edited by Puffwagon
Added a whs^ :)
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  • Member For: 9y 6m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

Haha me too!

I'm keeping a document with the stuff I want to do in my tune when I eventually finish getting the car right and then purchase the software. Item 2 above just went in there.

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 9m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

I believe the product from mixing Na2CO3 + 2 NH4Cl with a bit of water is 2 NaCl + H2O + CO2 + 2 NH3 but don't quote me on that cos I ain't no chemist.

 

Heheheh diy boner tuning :highfive2:

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  • Member For: 11y 1m 10d

So about midday Friday we decided to change plans. Gave up on the drift car and pulled my street car out of the garage retorqued the head studs ( I got boost happy doing skids the other week and threw the belt off hitting the trigger sensor which made abit of timing wander and lifted the head hahaha.) so torqued it down again no bubbles in the coolant tank luckily. Left it with the 6900rpm limiter and 25psi boost all weekend and just beat the sh*t out of it. Still hasn't seen a Dyno since my clutch failure 12months ago so just street tuned but had no issues living at 6500+rpm allweekend. Safe to say the stock motor loves the abuse ahaha.

 

Was going to add skid video from my facebook but ill upload to youtube and post back.

 

Burnouts below...

Edited by eff xr6t
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