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Diy Tuning


Ralph Wiggum

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  • Member For: 13y 4m 6d
I figured it was there as disables cruise control when in second gear, even when vehicle speed is high enough.

It kinda is the 90's though till the last software advancements.


Out of curiosity when/how did Daryl leave HP? Or did he?
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  • Member For: 10y 5m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia

???

 

Darryl has never worked for HP. He was retired before I met him. Then I convinced him to come work long hours for free with me 😄

Edited by rollex
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  • Member For: 9y 7m 4d
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  • Location: Canberra ACT

Hey guys.  Bit of a noob question, but how do I force the car to stay in open loop at idle?  Is it just a matter of putting the throttle position to zero in the Open Loop TPS transition table?  (ie so that open loop is triggered from 0% throttle)?

 

Trying to troubleshoot an issue where the fuel trims are sometimes stable (Lambda 1.00, trims virtually zero), sometimes not (trims up to -15%, lambda lurching from 0.9 to 1.1) at idle.  Ccan stall the car when they go wonky, especially when transitioning netral to drive or drive to neutral.  I'm checked a bunch of things an am suspicious that something in the O2 sensor wiring is funny.

 

Fuel control under load is absolutely spot on, so want to see if the idle issue goes away on open loop at idle.  Injectors are freshly reconditioned F6 injectors so I have factory data for them.

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  • Member For: 12y 9m 17d
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From memory you wind out the 02 sensor delay values so that once started, it takes ages to ever reach closed loop.

 

Don't think you can disable it all together, unless you possibly disabled the narrow band O2 control?

 

Either way, it gives you enough time to see what's going on before it goes to closed loop to correct the issue. Know where the setting is in HP, and can check tonight if you like. PCMTEC I'm not sure about.

 

Edit - saw you were referring to @ idle, not start so am assuming it's warm when you've got the issue. Possibly look at disabling the O2 control maybe?

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  • Member For: 9y 7m 4d
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Thanks mate. Yeah issue occurs warm and cold.

 

Am going to try the zero throttle thing, plus set the number of O2 sensors to zero.

 

Edit: actually I will try what you have suggested too - set the startup delay for closed loop to 3600 seconds which gives me an hour!

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  • Member For: 10y 5m 18d
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Log it against cam angle. You'll probably find its fine for one cam angle and not for another, cam angle changes VE dramatically, hence the pulse width as well.

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  • Member For: 10y 5m 18d
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Is it the factory calibration/strategy and engine?

 

What about exhaust/dump pipe? If the O2 sensor has been moved the transport time will be wrong which can cause O2 oscillations/swings.

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  • Member For: 9y 7m 4d
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Yep - all factory.  Exhaust is 4" X-force cat and dump.  I imagine that could have a small impact, but you'd also think it would be a stable impact (like just a wider oscillation of lambda around 1.00), not fine one minute and dodgy the next.

 

I've got a thread I started a while ago with this issue so I'll update there re troubleshooting the car further once I know some more.

 

Setting the open loop throtle position to zero and the start up delay to an hour seemed to do the trick for open loop.  Flashed that in befor I left work and lamda at idle was very stable on the way home.  I need to put 0.9 or something flat across my base fuel map and zero out the scalars to be sure (and keep it off boost then of course).

 

Could be interesting to add lambda scalars back in one by one to see if I can find the culprit.  

 

BTW setting the number of O2 sesnors to zero didn't work  - car would crank but not start

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