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09 F6 Rebuild Advice Needed


NatesF6

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  • New Member
  • Member For: 9y 5m 3d

Only new to this website but in search of advice with getting my ute rebuilt.

Recently the oil pump went in it. Long story short the cylinder needs replacing and wanting to commit to having it built with better and stronger internals but the problem is I'm not sure where to start?

Before it was 472HP at 17psi with

SCT handheld tuner

KnN filter

Injectors

Wastegate

X-force 4" dump with 3.5" and cats

Herod hose kit.

Is the cylinder head the same as the Xr's?

What's a good direction in regards to cam,pistons,valves ect?

I'm not too clued up but I want to be sure it's going to be done right. Any advice would be appreciated

Cheers

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  • Member For: 10y 1m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

Cheapest way is billet pump gears $370 intune, spool rebuild kit $1900 (shop around) Atomic H/D chain $165 Atomic billet chain bolt $39 Atomic billet crank sprocket $80 dont waste your money on a torque hone basic bore/hone $100 balance (optional) $300 NA engines are around $200 at the moment from Franks Auto Parts all cams are the same get a basic head service $350 and get them to fit a set of Performance springs while their at it ARP head bolts with 1mm head gasket $299. Your motors good for 550RWKW. Use your intake/exhaust manifolds just file flat the return provision on the mid sump and tap 2x M8 bolt holes before assembly. If anyone knows a cheaper way let me know as Im building 1 for a mate.

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  • Member For: 10y 1m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

Forgot to mention after pulling head off your said motor check your deck heights via TDC on No1 and No6 and write it on the deck you want to up your comp a little without having valve to piston issues so 10 - 20" is sufficient $60 and dont waste your money on a chemical clean before sending your block off High pressure clean it inside out removing all welsh plugs and once again when you receive it.. New welsh plugs $40 can of VHT engine enamel $14 <just to make it look pretty :)

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  • Member For: 13y 5m 8d

You listed my build almost exactly. Only thing I would add from experience is go atomic head studs and run there oversize washers.

Also I would add arp main studs.

And I wouldn't run performance springs as I had one fail which caused my initial rebuild.

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  • Member For: 10y 1m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

I ran Atomic head studs in mine, didnt know ARP was making bolts to suit but I doubt we need head studs for a small build (under 550rwkw). With the valve springs Crow make a spring but than you have to run crow retainers and collets than you have to machine your rockers, I know of at least 1 engine that failed using Atomic springs and 1 using Crow. Iv heard of a couple of engine failures due to Performance springs but in saying that Im guessing 20 sets of Performance springs are sold to 1 of the other 2 companies. When I was building engines I never heard of anyone break a Performance spring. Its a budget company that makes OK products. Their springs were known to loose tension over time but so does every other manufacturer apart from guys like Isky... Unfortunately Isky dont make springs for the Barra. Ps... I wouldn't run Crow if I was paid to do so. Im guessing Plazmaman springs are renamed Performance also

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  • Member For: 9y 5m 3d

Thanks heaps grego! This is all really valuable information and I appreciate you taking the time. I'll see how I go but as this will be a learning curve more then anything I really doubt I'll be getting out of this cheaply. Be sure to keep you guys posted through the build

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

Make sure you add at least a couple grand to the prices listed above if you are not doing all of the labour yourself.

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