Fuel Pump Voltage Booster/controller

[Ralph Wiggum]

If they are drawing 23.5 amps each at 18v they would be drawing 33.8amp each at 12.5 volts...hence my comments that 47amps seems a tad high.

Assuming they are running 23.5amp each at 12.5V amp draw at 18v would be closer to 16.5amp each at 18v. Which is well within the specs of the BAP.

[HI PSI]

The 47 amps surely would be them two combined so if they are 23.5amps each at maximum just get two 20amp boosters?

Unfortunately, the KPM module only has one power input and the pumps power is paralled internally. Therefore, this option is not available.

[HI PSI]

If they are drawing 23.5 amps each at 18v they would be drawing 33.8amp each at 12.5 volts...hence my comments that 47amps seems a tad high.

Assuming they are running 23.5amp each at 12.5V amp draw at 18v would be closer to 16.5amp each at 18v. Which is well within the specs of the BAP.

Very interesting. If it wasn't such a hassle to get the module out, I would test the draw myself. Edited 05/06/15 11:34 AM by HI PSI

[turbotrana]

I would shoot an email off to the manufacturer or even call them. They know what it can do and whether they will warranty it. I remember my unit quoting the continuous amps and max amps for short periods. I reckon continuous will be too hard on the unit but you will be able to do it switched on at boost.

Also with the fuel setup you need to do further testing with fuel output at alternator voltage at revs and with the voltage booster at various volts to see if you really need all that fuel or whether the fuel increase at extra volts is really worth it. It was said somewhere that these walbro 460 pumps don't seem to benefit from extra volts. I reckon they are probably a 4 pole motor in there judging by the current they draw and there must be high dimishing returns with extra voltage.

As I said before, it will test your wires/relays and fuses so be careful as drawing around 40 amps continuous is quite a bit in my books and can burn up a car very easily if not done carefully.

[bjc]

Don't people use rising rate fuel regulators anymore or would this not help in the situation?

When I ran my basic PW surge tank with the single bosche 044 I ran power from the starter motor as from memory it uses 8 gauge or bigger wiring to the battery. I think I just used 14 gauge wire as the 044 was 20amps max? I know that doesn't help but it's just for reference on what we did...

Why don't you hook it all up with appropriate power cable, have the battery on a car charger (so it's atleast getting 14+ volts) and with a fuel pressure guage also have the pumps crank the fuel into a bucket/drum and measure the output? Surely you have an adjustable fuel regulator somewhere also so you can set it at different pressures also and calculate flow rate?

I've had my two coffees so just dumping out what I'm thinking of atm...

[Ralph Wiggum]

Stock reg is boost referrenced hence rising rate. As are the high flow drop in units kpm use and the turbosmart units used by pw/plaz/etc.

[bjc]

Ok so to go by the setup (into a bucket) you'd need an adjustable fuel reg as it's a bit hard to add boost while pumping fuel into a bucket.

What are the standard fuel lines then capable of flowing as they are only like maybe a quarter inch internal? Surely there comes a point a PSI where it becomes a joke to use standard lines? Pretty much like what we saw on a certain Late model camira years ago at a dyno comp pumping 200psi fuel pressure and resulting in Apocalypse Now like explosion!!!

[turbotrana]

Have you thought about using a base pressure of 40psi. Are you still using base of 60psi. What are your fueling requirement calculations.

Also what about your supply side. Stock or 3/8.

I dont know how the kpm unit is done but can their outlet be changed to a 3/8 fitting.

Sometimes some small changes will get you where you need to be.

[HI PSI]

I am not utilising the standard fuel lines, regulator or filter. The system comprises of:

1/2" teflon feed and return line

Fuellab Race series regulator -10 inlet and return

Aeroflow fuel filter - AF66-2043S -12 fittings Dimensions - 7" x 2-1/2".

Aeroflow AF59-2431 - 10 micron stainless mesh filter and

I have designed the whole build with efficiency in mind and I'm hoping that these components will provide adequate efficiency and unload the pumps

[barnz]

Don't people use rising rate fuel regulators anymore or would this not help in the situation?

When I ran my basic PW surge tank with the single bosche 044 I ran power from the starter motor as from memory it uses 8 gauge or bigger wiring to the battery. I think I just used 14 gauge wire as the 044 was 20amps max? I know that doesn't help but it's just for reference on what we did...

Why don't you hook it all up with appropriate power cable, have the battery on a car charger (so it's atleast getting 14+ volts) and with a fuel pressure guage also have the pumps crank the fuel into a bucket/drum and measure the output? Surely you have an adjustable fuel regulator somewhere also so you can set it at different pressures also and calculate flow rate?

I've had my two coffees so just dumping out what I'm thinking of atm...

Never ever start a car connected to a charger. They aren't designed for that type of current draw. Some may be but your average one no.