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Fiftyone's Bitsa Build


FiftyOne

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NOR Perth

Yeah im not 100% sure whether toe/camber...I'm just relaying what the shop told me :P

They seem to know their sh*t (they have a few track cars themselves and apparently help the car clubs during track days at barbagello).

And yeah...up to you I suppose in regards to battery. Forgot you had a ute for a second when I said boot relo :P but the aftermarket plenum might give away...if the cops your way have seen a few bf engine bays. But yeah...will look good either way.

Whatever you do, I wouldn't go the under battery intake. Not sure if I was unlucky but when I had my old honda civic, dude put a air intake that goes to the front right foglight area...when it rained, went through a puddle and soaked the pod. Pretty sure water got sucked up and went into the engine somehow.....couple weeks later I had to pull over as the exhaust was spewing out the biggest white smoke cloud ever. Sold the car few months later and never found out if the engine needed to be replaced lol

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  • Member For: 11y 1m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Gunna's battery relocation is one of the nicest ive seen on a ute but would probably be a chit on a style side. As it would be inaccessible.

Honestly I think your causing yourself a world of hurt wanting to go factory airbox location with the nizzy plenum and an fg crossover? Not having a stab or anything mate but that's not going to look stock b series anyway lol. Done tastefully with black piping ect the battery relo/turbo side looks very stock to the untrained eye. Infact its how it should have been from the factory, less complicated, and logical.

But good on you for setting a goal and striving to achieve it, no matter how difficult.

Edited by barnz
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  • Member For: 10y 11m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

there are some second hand battery relocations for sale on face book and gumtree . I know they are only small batteries . just one thing to remember is to run a separate earth to the chase , as I had to due to noise interference with the radio ..

if you need a valve replacement tool let me know and I can send it to you ,if you are near Brisbane I will help you with it .

Edited by genuine honest person
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  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Male

Cheers GHP. I'll let you know

@barnz - completely agree with the fact this is unorthodox but actually, my assumption from the get go has been with different joiners & a few small nicks or cuts on some of the bits I can make everything fit & functional. The bigger issue, which I saw I was always going to have is all the stuff I've never done before which at this point is pretty much everything. The other thing that will bug me is time, I need to get the xcal fixed or replaced, and run around getting bits and now get some rims & tyres sorted out pronto plus some bushes I think. Work is getting more feral by the day, just a step off people screaming at each other *sigh* what evs

Everything else to me is semantics really, I think if your silly enough to dream it up you can do it. Thinking about it though, doing it this was also removes the need to traverse the bov return line and the crank vent back over the front of the engine. But yep so I agree it's more complicated than a whole drop in setup, and I appreciate the support

Edited by FiftyOne
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  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
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Yeah going to be one of those things that fights you all the way. Now I've got the coolant drain tap in the rad leaking. I'm hoping it's just the tap & I'm not swapping a rad out. Also realised I've ordered the wrong piping kit as I need the cool side & I got the hot side.

Anyway, on to more constructive things. The stock pressure transducer in the stock cooler, does anyone know where that needs to be mounted in a PW setup?

On to today's more expected dramas, the muffler won't fit as the PS pump is in the way. I suspect the Fg's have a slightly different turbo placement and/or a different ps pump. Iirc they do run a different pump I may have to get a custom piece of pipe bent up and ditch the muffler idea. Not a big deal, I think the length of the run will keep it quiet enough anyway.

The pipe that crosses over the plenum might be a bit too high too (keeping in mind the below pic shows the back of the plenum about 35mm or more too high. Failing that I'll maybe use a heat gun to re mold it or have a piece of pipe crushed to get over it? Again I'll figure something out. Other than this still waiting to get a right angle drill to do the final stud and bolt it down. Need a new booster hose & replumb all the bag lines which have changed slightly

Anyway here's the obligatory cooler comparison shot for the night

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post-68772-0-64457500-1428236217_thumb.j

post-68772-0-57002700-1428236253_thumb.j

post-68772-0-85580900-1428236117_thumb.j

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  • Member For: 10y 11m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

the exhaust manifold is further back on a FG ,that might be why the pipe is hitting . the FG and BA steering bumps are the same external size I thought ? ps nice air box , its bloody huge lol . great work , I know how long these things take . great to see you doing it all your self

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  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
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Pumps could very well be the same. I thought I read something about them being different. But highly unlikely.

Don't be too fooled by the airbox, it's sitting high in the bay, basically on top of the rad support. Also, another great reason to stick with a stock battery- you can buy a 520cca battery as a stock replacement but the relocation kit (yeah a superior battery by design anyway) only has about 440cca or something.

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