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Am I Gunna Get There


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  • Member For: 12y 9m 8d
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this is the guys comment from face book , about the BTR box

post-77056-0-84384900-1428304711_thumb.j

^^^

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But definitely agree with getting the best brakes and tyres you can. 450rwkw is going to be a farking handful! Fun though, no doubt :)

Edited by .Stripes.
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  • Member For: 11y 1m 1d
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Id say t3's are a necessity, given you can only run the smaller rotor and like to do track days they are going to get a hiding. I havent found any other rotor that can take the abuse, ive warped stockos and rda's first hiding, yet to warp the t3's.

Gunna from memory, t3 fronts, t2 rears(they dont do much work and solid discs are sh*t anyway so no need for t3 rears unless ventilated imo) qfm a1rm pads all round, braided lines from race brakes Sydney and new front hubs(bearings were a bit average) cost me just shy of 1k. I will go the pmu ns400 pads next time around though, same price and as good as a1rm's im told, without the noise and dust.

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 23d
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had to only pick it up from work ,had to take it slow ,because of the loose flex plate . got it home ok . building the engine stand at the moment ,got to get some bolts to suit the engine . I had some from the last build but am unable to find one of them ,have all 3 of them bugger

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I know you're limited with the rims Gunna, but I did the OEM brake upgrade with braided lines slotted rotors etc first and it was a fail on track.

If I was you, I'd just run some QFM A1RM pads and decent fluid (which you'll need to bleed after the track day) and, run some good old fashioned brake ducts on the fronts. Will save you poo loads and give similar performance. The harsh realty is, two piston calipers just won't pull up 1800 kegs of barge without cooking their guts on a track day. My 4 piston Brembos with T3's and PBR upgrade rears JUST gets it done. By just I mean fluid is cooked, pedal turns to mush and I need to bleed the brakes after every track day. I'm actually looking at incorporating some ducting on mine also.

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sorry stripes , all I have to do is klick on the photo to enlarge it . am I the only one that can do that ?.

the engine has arrived

Haha sorry bud, that was me being facetious about old mates spelling and grammar

Exciting times with the engine turning up though. Looking forward to seeing the skids this thing rips when it's done!

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 23d
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stripes so do I , its just that it will take a lot of time for me to get it all back together . I looked at the engine and said why did I do this to my self lol .

Bomber , I will give the T3 a go and the pads that you recommended (they are cheap enough to buy ) I also will run some high boil brake fluid from motul . I agree with you they are a big boat to stop ,with my little brakes . have had the same idea with the ducting for the brakes . on a friends race car he actually has a spray bottle ( electric window sprayer )hooked up to spray a mist every time he hits the brakes ,and he said it works great

can tell the engine came from a panel shop ,all the bog dust is everywhere on the engine . have to get my compressor and air hose from work again

Edited by genuine honest person
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 5d
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If you're going to stick with a two piston front caliper then at least track down a set of the PBR C5/C6 calipers.

They use a 325 x 32mm disc rotor instead of the 298 or 322 x 28mm that the standard Falcons use.

The extra 4mm thickness helps with handling the heat and not warping.

That caliper was also used on the '97-'02 Corvette, which means a good range of performance brake pads (ie get them from the US).

They are had to find secondhand, but if you're not going to go Brembo then at least find a set of them.

They came in three different colours:

- Red with a PBR logo

- Black with a Ford logo

- Blue with an FPV logo

They were an option on the BA Falcon and standard on a lot of the BA FPVs. They do need a 17" rim though.

Edited by PhilMeUp
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